Understanding Part Numbers

[daniel3507]

Ive been looking for a block heater for my Ranger and have since discovered that Ford no longer makes them. No surprise there and its no big deal. There are plenty of NOS on Ebay. My question though comes down to part numbers. The main part of the part number I believe is 6D008-A. That is the number I got from fordparts.com and its some of the part number I got when I called the parts distribution place here in town. My question is about the string of numbers before that. I bought one on ebay that was part number E43Z-6D008-A. The part number I got on the phone was the same except for the E43Z part. What I was told involved an F. Whats the difference in parts if just that first set of numbers is changed?

If it helps at all on the freeze plug heater element on the part I got it says LR 1843 and 400 watt. The one on FordParts.com says 600w. I would love to install this but I am worried about it not fitting and leaking coolant.


EDIT: Looks like i messed up on the part number I bought. Its an E43z-6D008-A

 

[adsm08]

Ford part numbers are a bit confusing.

The prefix (the first 4 places) usually denotes a vehicle or application that the part works on.

The middle set is the "base number" which tells you what type of part you are looking at. For example, a 6000 is a short block engine, a 6001 is a long block, a 7001 is a transmission.

The last place is always a letter, sometimes two letters (A, AA, AB, etc) and denotes a revision.

So say 643Z-6D008-A is a block heater for a Ranger.

FL3Z-6D008-B would be a block heater for an F-150 (I don't know if that is the correct prefix, this is just an example), but this heater has been revised somehow and the part you go down and buy when yours goes bad is in some way different from the one it is replacing.

That is the extent of my understanding of the part number system. MountainMike could explain it better than I can probably, since he is a parts guy.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

What I know about ford part #'s relates to the first four characters;
1) a letter that corresponds to the decade: c=1960 d=1970 etc.
2) a number that corresponds to the year: c9=1969 d9=1979
The next two letters I'm not as sure about. They have to do with the manufacturing plant and the family the part is a part of....if that made sense.
The part # you show doesn't seem to fit in, maybe the 6 is a "G".
Anyway, someone with more knowledge will chime in I'm sure.
Edit; ^^^ and someone did.

Richard

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

What I know about ford part #'s relates to the first four characters;
1) a letter that corresponds to the decade: c=1960 d=1970 etc.
2) a number that corresponds to the year: c9=1969 d9=1979
The next two letters I'm not as sure about. They have to do with the manufacturing plant and the family the part is a part of....if that made sense.
The part # you show doesn't seem to fit in, maybe the 6 is a "G".
Anyway, someone with more knowledge will chime in I'm sure.
Edit; ^^^ and someone did.

Richard

That is the engineering code not the part number. It is changed when the part is changed but basically only states when it was designed and what was originally designed for.

E - 1980's
7 - XXX7 (1987 in this case)
T - Truck
E - Engine

That code is on both my cylinder heads and engine block in my truck. It is commonly refered to as slang (E7 heads vs E6 heads...) but really isn't a part number a Ford parts guy will care too much about. In my case they were coded for a truck apparently but my block was out of a big car and the heads are off a Mustang so you can't really go by that either.

I have seen Ford part numbers, they are worse than the Echo ones I deal with which is a bunch of 0's and a couple other numbers. As far as I can tell Ford has a room full of keyboards and cats set up to come up with part numbers.

The best number system I have come across is John Deere's. A letter or two at the beginning which can say what it is for (AR, R are usually tractor, H or AH is harvester or combine, M is mower...) and then four to six numbers after that. AR26350 is an example and a stupid common oil filter that ran from the 1940's up into the 70's. And to top it off they are usually kind enough to stamp, engrave or burn the part number into the part so you know what you are looking for down the road. Considering they maintain a parts supply for all sorts of equipment that goes back into the 40's I don't know what Ford's problem is.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Thanks for clarifying

 

[daniel3507]

I the part number I originally typed in was wrong. The correct one is E43Z-6D008-A

Thanks for all the help. I am starting to understand it and I think I might have the wrong part. From what you all have said its for something from 1984 with a short block. Looks like I need to find the correct part

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I the part number I originally typed in was wrong. The correct one is E43Z-6D008-A

Thanks for all the help. I am starting to understand it and I think I might have the wrong part. From what you all have said its for something from 1984 with a short block. Looks like I need to find the correct part

It might sub up...

If it doesn't need changed they won't changed the four digit prefix. And it would go in the shortblock...

 

[daniel3507]

Well I found out the one I need is a F3TZ-6D008-A and bought it online. I wont be installing the current one I have. I plugged it in for just a few seconds and the damn thing caught fire. Guess thats what happens when it has no coolant around it or anything. Makes me kind of rethink the one I just bought.

 

[adsm08]

If it makes you feel better I caught my exhaust manifold gasket on fire tonight.

 

[daniel3507]

Hey its cold out this time of year. Sometimes fires feel nice.

 

[adsm08]

I'm pretty sure exhaust manifold gaskets are supposed to be non-flammable.

 

[daniel3507]

I'm pretty sure exhaust manifold gaskets are supposed to be non-flammable.

They dont rate products for adsm use.

 

[Mark_88]

Hey its cold out this time of year. Sometimes fires feel nice.

I just finished reading a bunch of fail posts and this sort of fit in with the witty reply...lol

I was going to suggest moving to a warmer state, but any movement means you are warmer at an atomic level...

 

[LIMA BEAN]

Why not just go to the parts store and get one?

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/s...g&year=1993&make=Ford&model=Ranger&vi=1137923

Dont leave it plugged in all night it's a waste and may boil your junk out, an hour or two on a timer before work is fine. Also when you turn the truck off leave your heat selector on defrost so the warmth migrates up to your windshield.

 

[daniel3507]

Originally I had planned on it but when I went to advance I asked about them and they said they no longer carried them because they had a lot come back that failed under warranty. After hearing that I figured I might as well try and find a motorcraft.

I plan an just plugging it in an hour or two before I leave. I really dont live anywhere that gets super cold at night but the drive from my house to class isn't long enough to warm the truck up and I dont really like driving it that often without it getting a chance to warm up. Hopefully this will make it so I wont have to idle it for near as long in the mornings.