Ugh! Stupid part.

[Original_Ranger84]

So a little while ago a u joint failed and broke... no biggy right? Wrong! Apparently it shook one of the bolts loose and it snapped off in the rear yoke. I got it drilled out and it was all good, got the new u-joint in and when I got it all back together and then i found the u joint could slid from side to side in between the yoke. Is it supposed to be able to do that? Or did it some how get really warn out? And I tried to find a replacement yoke all together but they stopped selling them everywhere. Is there anywhere I can get a replacement yoke, or should I start junk yard diving? Oh and its a Borg Warner 1350 manual t-case on a 1984 Ranger.

 

[sfwjesse]

on most yokes ive seen there are little tabs that stop the cups from moving side to side, on the outside of the yoke. They are part of the yoke casting

 

[Original_Ranger84]

Yeah there are the little tabs... but that is whats worn out they are allowing it to move side to side. I don't know how they could be i mean its not like the cups move just the inside right?

 

[Roadkill]

How much is it sliding? U-Joints are made to move in just about any direction they need to in order to keep from binding. Side to side if it just flops around or moves say, more than 1/8" then you may have a bad "new" u-joint. All the ones I've had to replace were very snug once installed then would loosen up as everything seats.

 

[Original_Ranger84]

How much is it sliding? U-Joints are made to move in just about any direction they need to in order to keep from binding. Side to side if it just flops around or moves say, more than 1/8" then you may have a bad "new" u-joint. All the ones I've had to replace were very snug once installed then would loosen up as everything seats.

The u joint is brand new and the right one. it is stiff too. but i mean the u joint should be set right in the middle of the yoke and the tabs that hold it dead center are worn out so that it can move from side to side easily.

 

[Straekar]

If I had to guess I would say its the wrong u-joint. I had a go rouhd with a parts person over a joint in my daughters. He gave me the right joint also ( according to his computer, and we ll know that info cant be wrong. Its in the computer. ) I ended up getting a joint for a different model that fit. If you still have the old one compare it against the new for distance acrost the caps. Not all joints are created equal.

 

[cocoasranger]

Have the parts guy compare the old u-joint to the new one, paying special attention to the outside diameter of the bearing caps and the overall length between the outer edges of the caps across from each other.

The bearing caps on the old u-joint are hardened steel and should still be the original diameter even if the joint was hammered.

 

[Mac]

Yeah there are the little tabs... but that is whats worn out they are allowing it to move side to side. I don't know how they could be i mean its not like the cups move just the inside right?

If those tabs are broken off or that warn, that's what's letting your joint slide sideways. If you got that far in the installation, probably do have the right joint. Lookk at the slip joint, the cups are held in position by internal retaining rings, you might get .030 side to side movement. Just my guess is that when that bolt started to come loose, it allowed the joint to move sideways and break those tab. Post a picture
Dave