UCA install

[--weezl--]

i've got a bad balljoint, and a replacement moog uca, i'm hoping to do this, this week, is it a 1 day job, (everything i've seen says i shoudln't have too many issues) and what all do i have to do?

i've got a socket set, an impact, though my compressor is questionable, and i plan to use a bottle jack to get the ball joint out of the spindle

also, after replacing the UCA, how imperative is it to get an alignment done ASAP? i may not be able to get it done till monday... i know NOTHING about caster/camber adjustment and bolts, though i do know the difference between the two...

any other tips of advice you guys can give me? i don't expect much, (if any) rust, as my truck's only 4 years old, well taken care of, and there isn't much rust on anything as it is, so things should be mostly free...

the kit i got came with the UCA, the balljoint pre-installed on it, which doesn't have any threads on it, it's a smooth shaft, with a couple notches on it, and a little baggie with one bolt, and one nut in it... that's it... i'll have to pick up a grease nipple

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Pretty simple job.

Jack the truck up and support it from the lower control arm.

Undo the pinch bolt that holds the balljoint stud into the knuckle. Take a chisel and hammer it into the pinch area where the balljoint stud is. That will open it up a bit and make it easier for you to remove the balljoint stud. Take a hammer and beat the upper control arm upwards to remove the stud from the knuckle.

Next you will need 21mm wrench and socket to remove the 2 upper control arm bolts. Slide the bolts and washer out. Remove and replace the upper arm and reinstall the bolts and washer as they were previously installed. They will have square washers that are preset for the alignment angles. Pry the control arm down and get the stud back into the knuckle and tighten the pinch bolt.

 

[doyouquaxu]

your upper arm should have the alignment locked into place. i know on mine, there were two "plates" that got sandwiched between the upper arm bolt and the upper arm mount that had a single hole to run the bolt through. it shouldn't be something that you need an impact for, i got mine done with hand tools. the bolts on the upper arm in the frame are a PITA to remove due to lack of space, especially on the driver's side with the steering shaft in the way. if anything, once you get the bolt in the spindle out, use a hammer to tap up on the arm to remove the ball joint from the spindle.

if you put the new arm on and the alignment is off, it's not that big of a deal really. eyeball your toe, use a tape measure to get it as close as possible to 1/4" toe in.

 

[--weezl--]

so wait... removing the uca won't change the alignment at all?

i found a web article about a 2000 ranger, 2wd, with coil springs, and the guy said that the upper control arm bolts are one piece with the alignment plates?

and that i should mark the position, like this:

and this page says something along the same lines, but doesn't really give too many details...

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_en2/DYK10_106_En.pdf

 

[doyouquaxu]

i want to say on newer trucks ford changed the system to what sasquatch_ryda and i were talking about. makes it easier for them to make the trucks on an assembly line if they can just bolt the mounts up and have the alignment be good to go. i changed my plates/washers/whatever for alignment cams like you posted though.


either way, bad alignment for a day or two won't kill you. my camber has been off on my truck for almost 3 years, and i can't get it fixed. long story, nobody ask please. it's getting fixed in the next few weeks.

 

[--weezl--]

well, my alignment is out as it is (why i'm getting it done next week, if i get this done tomorrow, hopefully i can get an alignment on friday)

it pulls to the left, and the steering wheel is crooked... it naturally wants to sit about 20* to the left, and pulls to the left, to go straight, i have to turn it back to about 5-10* to the left... not sure what's buggered up on it, but i'm not happy... friend's in school for mechanics right now, and they are luckly doing suspension this semester, and can get my truck in for... wait for it... FREE!

 

[--weezl--]

while i'm on the topic... does anyone know of anywhere online you can have access to/download repair manuals such as chilton, haynes, or other... or even just get access to exploded views of everything? i had one website way back, that i was using for my bike, and thought they did cars/trucks also, but can't remember for the life of me the website...

 

[--weezl--]

ok, got the new control arm in, few things though...

first, when i went to grease it up, the boot didn't fill up with grease like i am used to them doing... it all puked out the bottom of the boot, through the slit, that the pinch bolt pinches (see pic)

the green is the grease, there's not much of it in this pic, but most of the grease i pumped in, came out here... is that normal?

second, my drivers side balljoint started making the squeeky bedsprings noise today... never heard it before (the passenger baljoint was DEF worn out) how imperitive is it to have them replaced, if there is no play, but this noise is present? i would assume that this noise is a warning of future failure?

and third, my new (right side) makes some creaking? noises, maybe that's not the right word for it... it's like a cracking noise, of something moving, hesitantly, when i go over bumps is this normal... bad... the front bushing seemed to have a little bit (very little) of room around it, before torquing it up, where as the rear was tight...

and before anyone asks, yes, i torqued the bolts (not the pinch) with weight on the suspension

i've got lots of pics of the install, so i'll be doing a how to: for the tech library, and when i submit it, i'll post the link here