U-joint for my explorer 8.8 swap.

[mjonesjr]

Either way, the joint and the new flange like I got are going to be the same price. I would go with the new flange so you don't have to order a special u-joint whenever you change the joints in the future. That will allow you to order both u-joints at the same place and the same time with the stock part #'s; and the part #'s an auto parts stores computer will bring up for your truck.

 

[Zachalanche]

I think the u-joint I am dealing with is a 1210. mjones, is that the same joint you are working with?

 

[mjonesjr]

yes.

 

[Zachalanche]

do you by chance know ther part number of that flange yoke?

 

[crawlin91]

used my old flange(from the 2 piece) and new ujoint to make my 1 piece work...that was at the Tcase end. The rear hooked up with no problems.

 

[Zachalanche]

thanks for the pics.
I think ford started using the 1310 u-jonts in rangers after 1990 which is the same size joint the explorer used. unfortunately I'm trying to work with the 1210 joint. and I am trying to avoid having my drive shaft modified.

 

[4x4junkie]

k. here's all the specs my ranger is an 89 2.9 4X4 extended cab so it has the 2 piece drive line. it started out as an auto but is now a manual so that probably makse no difference. as for the explorer rear end, I got it out of another ranger. so, I don't know what the specs on the explorer were. all I know is that is out of an older explorer since it has drum brakes.

Here... this is probably a better idea, as I don't think a large flange that takes a 1210 joint exists:

Chuck that two-piece shaft for a one-piece shaft from a '98-'00 4WD Supercab Ranger. Try to find a steel shaft (not aluminum) as it will literally just bolt right in now that you have the 8.8" under there (most you may need to do is remove the carrier bearing bracket, and trim the steel skidplate under your gas tank for clearance for when the rear suspension flexes).

This link might help:
http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/June04/offroad.htm

 

[Sevensecondsuv]

When I put the sploder 8.8 in my ranger the stock flange from the 7.5 bolted up to the 8.8 perfectly. It was the same part. I'm running the ranger driveshaft, flange, and u-joints no problem.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

When I put the sploder 8.8 in my ranger the stock flange from the 7.5 bolted up to the 8.8 perfectly. It was the same part. I'm running the ranger driveshaft, flange, and u-joints no problem.

Yeah, in 1990 and later they put the larger flange on the 7.5's as well.

 

[therieldeal]

so theoretically i could grab a shaft from a 90+ long bed ranger if i were to put an explorer rear in my 89... and it'd all bolt right in?

 

[alaskan155]

the alignment circle in the center of the pinion flange is the same as 89 down as the 90+, so on the 8.8 all you got to do is drill and tap 4 holes for the 89-down flange pattern basically 3" to 2.5 and you can use your stock shaft or p can buy a matching driveshaft from a 90-97 long bed regular cab(that what your is right)(not sure if the 98+ one piece shaft for the extend is the same as the regular)

use can also use on off these with the explorer flange maybe if its the same as the 98+ rangers
http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=262

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

the alignment circle in the center of the pinion flange is the same as 89 down as the 90+, so on the 8.8 all you got to do is drill and tap 4 holes for the 89-down flange pattern basically 3" to 2.5 and you can use your stock shaft or p can buy a matching driveshaft from a 90-97 long bed regular cab(that what your is right)(not sure if the 98+ one piece shaft for the extend is the same as the regular)

and 1310 was used in the early 80's, late 90s use a 1330 (98+) beleieve the 90s are also a 1330 with a different cap size

I have been trying to find a driveshaft for mine, but about the time they changed the flanges the long bed was starting to die out.

The extended cab trucks have a longer driveshaft.

 

[Zachalanche]

Here... this is probably a better idea, as I don't think a large flange that takes a 1210 joint exists:

Chuck that two-piece shaft for a one-piece shaft from a '98-'00 4WD Supercab Ranger. Try to find a steel shaft (not aluminum) as it will literally just bolt right in now that you have the 8.8" under there (most you may need to do is remove the carrier bearing bracket, and trim the steel skidplate under your gas tank for clearance for when the rear suspension flexes).

This link might help:
http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/June04/offroad.htm

I currently have a 4" suspensionlift. am I going to have to relocate the carrier bearing crossmember or just remove the carrier bearing mount?

 

[4x4junkie]

4" lift makes for a close call on it. Check the clearance with the rear suspension at droop and see if it hits.
If it's needed, I would move the crossmember forward some myself, although some just remove it entirely. It adds maybe a minimal amount of structural support for the frame (mostly it was to just support the center bearing)