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Turbo wiring
- Thread starter hodge711
- Start date
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2001
- Messages
- 9,603
- City
- Dayton
- State - Country
- OR - USA
- Vehicle Year
- 1990, 1997
- Drive
- 4WD
- Engine
- 2.3 (4 Cylinder)
- Transmission
- Manual
- Total Lift
- 6
- Tire Size
- 35"
I'd start with your LAST POST
then check out the STICKY, if you want to use the stock ranger ignition system and get rid of the distributor on the '86, look at post 8, there are also some wiring links in that post, the differences in the 87/88 thunderbird and the 85/86 are the separate intake air temp sensor in the manifold in the 87/88 where the temp sensor was in the VAM on the 85/86 otherwise they are basically the same.
I'll help where I can, the easiest way is to look at the stock thunderbird wiring harness, strip the wires from it for the VAM, knock sensor and boost controller and add them to the ranger harness, get the air filter box out so you can get to the molded grommet for the wiring going through the firewall, make a slot in it so you can add those wires beside the stock wires. I believe I mentioned keeping the ranger throttle body in your other post, that will save you some splicing, there are a few other things that will save you some splicing if you keep them from the ranger
then check out the STICKY, if you want to use the stock ranger ignition system and get rid of the distributor on the '86, look at post 8, there are also some wiring links in that post, the differences in the 87/88 thunderbird and the 85/86 are the separate intake air temp sensor in the manifold in the 87/88 where the temp sensor was in the VAM on the 85/86 otherwise they are basically the same.
I'll help where I can, the easiest way is to look at the stock thunderbird wiring harness, strip the wires from it for the VAM, knock sensor and boost controller and add them to the ranger harness, get the air filter box out so you can get to the molded grommet for the wiring going through the firewall, make a slot in it so you can add those wires beside the stock wires. I believe I mentioned keeping the ranger throttle body in your other post, that will save you some splicing, there are a few other things that will save you some splicing if you keep them from the ranger
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2001
- Messages
- 9,603
- City
- Dayton
- State - Country
- OR - USA
- Vehicle Year
- 1990, 1997
- Drive
- 4WD
- Engine
- 2.3 (4 Cylinder)
- Transmission
- Manual
- Total Lift
- 6
- Tire Size
- 35"
the only reason you need a programmer is to change the timing, I'm set up stock and it runs fine...
mine did the same thing, sounded camed and would not rev up, vam was wired wrong go back and look at the diagrams and voltages to the wires
for reference heres how mine ran
for reference heres how mine ran
hodge711
Member
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2011
- Messages
- 5
- Transmission
- Automatic
running like crap
still cant figure this thing out. tried every thing i can think of on the vam. truck wont run barley at all at 10 deg timing but if you bump it up to about 18 deg it will run better but it seems to fall on its face and then take off again. i did not hook up the boost sensor. guess ill have to try that.
still cant figure this thing out. tried every thing i can think of on the vam. truck wont run barley at all at 10 deg timing but if you bump it up to about 18 deg it will run better but it seems to fall on its face and then take off again. i did not hook up the boost sensor. guess ill have to try that.
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