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Turbo fun


:update, making the exhuast system currently, turbo and intercooler are on their way, im hung up on if i should buy this motor it had forged internals hardened valve seats a ported head and more but im not sure how well it will work with my harness because it has a distributor and i have dis.
 
It only takes some re pinning of one of your dis plugs. I did it with my mustang.
 
any wright ups for this?
 
Your best bet is to find a wiring diagram for an 88 turbo coupe(just for the distributor wires) and your truck. When you compare the two, look at the pins in the distributor plug, trace the wires back to the ecu, and see what the pin is called, then find that pin on your trucks ecu (they should be the same abbreviation). That's what I did.
 
The other option is to make a template of DIS engine for the crank sensor bracket holes (there's 3) and drill/tap them for 6mm, two are bolts one is a stud just use a longer bolt with a shoulder and cut the head off and use it for the stud that's what I did and it works great. You'll have to slot one of the holes for the DIS front seal housing but it's not a big deal, to keep the tach working you either need to put the dual plug head on or figure out what resistor needs wired where (I figured it out once but forgot before I did it... been living without a tach for 5 years now) and eliminate the drivers side coil pack.

I didn't want to deal with a distributor so I kept the DIS since I'd had good luck with it, it's important to note that the DIS module needs to be grounded through the housing...
 
so... what? just mount the crankshaft position sensor and itll run with no distributor? im just confused where the icm and stuff would go? have any pictures?
 
Yes if you can mount the crank position sensor, it will run without a distributor, but if I'm not mistaken you would have to drip and tap the bolt holes, as well as drilling the locating pin hole. Not easy to get right. The ICM can go wherever you want to put it, that's the beauty of custom work.
 
Sounds like fun on a bun lol I guess when I get this block I'll take a look at mounting it up
 
It's only drilling and tapping 3 holes for 6mm bolts, I made a template from the original engine locating to some of the front seal housing holes (most of the holes line up for that, there's one that's in a different spot, it's the middle one). Like I said, for the locating pin just use a bolt with a shoulder and cut the head off. It was suprisingly easy to get correct, after the bracket is mounted just put the crank reluctor wheel on and center the sensor on the fins so it doesn't hit anything while you turn it over and you're set... Take the distributor plug out of the distributor hole on the original engine and plug the distributor hole...
 
Okay, so a stock svo mustang 2.3t turbo is a Garrett t3? Or what I'm confused I picked one up cheap and want to rebuild it for good measure
 
It's probably a Garrett T3/T4 hybrid, in '87/88 they switched to an IHI turbo that's a little smaller than the Garrett but I think the SVO's came with the Garrett...
 
Svo's are just a plain t3, ford never used a t3/t4 hybrid.
 
Are there rotated turbo elbow things for fmic's?
 
has anyone ever put a tko 600 behind their 2.3's?
 
Hey guys, finally got this swap done, had some help with the wiring for the mass air or the vam (I think he messed it up) but it's a 2.3 t out of a turbo coupe. I can drive it with plenty of power and little issues, but it idles at 2000 rpm, and that gets a bit annoying... Very quickly lol.

At first start up it idles at about 900 rpm and a drive around my block will see it idling at 2k.

I had a massive boost leak that I took care of but its still idling about the same, I haven't checked again too see what else is probably leaking.

Any suggestions guys? Some help would be great as I want too drive this truck (far) soo bad!
 

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