turbo b2?

[azazeyl]

so im looking for ways to get more power for by b2, but i dont want an engine swap. im geting another 2.8 and doing the holly and duraspark swap along with a rebuild. but i was wondering if anyone has turbod these. id like to know if they make rings and if id need different pistons. i cant fond any threads on this subject though im sure theyre out there. if you guys have links to what i need or advice, all help is appreciated.

 

[bobbywalter]

best value, 4.0.



turbo, get a 2.3.


if you went back in time, and brought me a brand new b2 back with a 2.8, i would rip it out and put an ls powertrain in it.







but, i have also been beat by a 2.8 up against my 5.0 ranger.

the 2.8 was about a 20-25k piece though to have done today as well.

follow normal turbo carb protocals and stay under 6 pounds and you should have a bad ass 2.8.

 

[wild horse]

All I can say is dont waste your money trying to put a turbo on a 2.8 .

 

[azazeyl]

i would LOVE to put chevy in this, but i think thatl be more than i can manage...ive heard people swapping dist, everyone says to do a duraspark swap. i dont like msd styled dist, i want a more basic vacume advance type...i found this when looking at older 2.8 dist upgrades, i think it would work but i want to make sure...

http://www.jegs.com/i/Mallory/650/4760801/10002/-1

 

[Twister]

i would LOVE to put chevy in this, but i think thatl be more than i can manage...ive heard people swapping dist, everyone says to do a duraspark swap. i dont like msd styled dist, i want a more basic vacume advance type...i found this when looking at older 2.8 dist upgrades, i think it would work but i want to make sure...

http://www.jegs.com/i/Mallory/650/4760801/10002/-1

The duraspark using a very simple single port vacuum advance. If you have a 2.8, its a highly reccomended swap, plus you could do the whole swap for far under what that Mallory dizzy.

Sent from, wait how did this get here?

 

[azazeyl]

yeah, but the wiring gets hairy with 85 2.8...that mallory would just be drop in with ALOT less wiring and less clutter. but would it work is my question?

 

[superds]

Using that Mallory distributor is still basically a "duraspark" conversion, just with aftermarket hi-po parts, you would still need to do something about the carb. Does that distributor have an ignition control module and coil built into it? If not there would be no less wires to run; you would still need to run wires for the ignition control module and coil. I've never done a duraspark on an 85 but I can't imagine it being that much different than the plug and play 84, sure one plug doesn't match up and you'd have to splice those two wires but what else? I think that's the only thing that's different. A proper duraspark conversion leaves you with only the absolute necessary wires left in the engine bay to make the vehicle run.

 

[Twister]

yeah, but the wiring gets hairy with 85 2.8...that mallory would just be drop in with ALOT less wiring and less clutter. but would it work is my question?

I durasparked my 85 B2, not many wires. You only have to splice 1 or 2 wires. If you want to go with the mallory, go ahead. Just letting you know the duraspark is dead simple and far cheaper.

 

[dieseldane]

The mallory has a built in control module.

You'll need a compatible coil, and a ballast resistor, and this noise filter is also recommended.

Simple to wire? Definatley, couldn't get much easier, three wires, done.

Expensive, and too much to spend on a 2.8? Yes. If you're going to spend this much money to turbo a 2.8 and buy all the expensive goodies for it, you'd be better of to put that money towards a 4.0 v6 or even a v8 swap, and either of those would be more reliable as well.

Although, if you've got the parts laying around, turbos are always fun.

 

[adsm08]

If you're going to spend this much money to turbo a 2.8 and buy all the expensive goodies for it, you'd be better of to put that money towards a 4.0 v6 or even a v8 swap, and either of those would be more reliable as well.

And then turbo it.

 

[azazeyl]

on the directions it shows a way to do it without the ballast. id never do a v8, i have no interest in making my truck a submarine in the mud...and i really dont want a swap. i know id have to change the carb and do something about the OD. im getting a junk yard engine and doing a full rebuild on it. so this model will drop in and work though?

 

[dieseldane]

on the directions it shows a way to do it without the ballast. id never do a v8, i have no interest in making my truck a submarine in the mud...and i really dont want a swap. i know id have to change the carb and do something about the OD. im getting a junk yard engine and doing a full rebuild on it. so this model will drop in and work though?

You would need a loom resistor wire if you don't use a ballast resistor, I do not think the stock wiring contains one, so you would have to add one or the other.

Instuctions here:
http://mallory-ignition.com/media/instructions/mallory/Mallory_Instructions_unilite_distributor_37_38_45_47.pdf

IMPORTANT
Before installing the UNILITE® Distributor, make sure that your vehicle is equipped with an ignition ballast resistor (or loom
resistance wire) in the wire between the ignition switch and the coil (+) terminal. Check a service manual for your vehicle to
locate the ignition ballast resistor (or loom resistance wire). If your vehicle is not equipped with an ignition ballast resistor,
install a Mallory Ignition Ballast Resistor Part No. 700 in the wire between the ignition switch and the coil (+) terminal. Failure
to use an ignition ballast resistor will eventually destroy the UNILITE
®
Ignition Module.

 

[dieseldane]

I think if you are getting a junkyard motor to do a full rebuild on, your money is better spent on another motor.

When I bought my b2, it already had the whole Mallory Unilite setup, a Holley carb, Edelbrock headers, and a good free-flowing exhaust. Has great compression and is tuned well. The thing will hardly get out of it's own way. For just a little more money than you would spend on your junkyard 2.8 you could get a 4.0, and get the wiring harness and other parts you would need for less than the price of that dizzy. If you wanted to start spending money on that, there would be gobs more potential power out of that setup.

Also, if you had the v8 and the ability to turn some big ol' nasty meats, you wouldn't have to worry about the extra couple hundred pounds "submarining" your ride.

 

[Renny_D]

So my question is what kind of hp/torque can the stock pistons, rings, rods, crank, mains etc take in stock form. I ask as I come from the volvo turbo community an we are routinely taking engines that made around 80 hp in stock non turbo form and pushing them to 300 hp, the point at which we start breaking rods. Upgrade rods and pistons and you have 400 or more hp with headroom for more and heads become the limiting factor. The prv v6 will cook ring lands at 5 lbs of boost but swap pistons and rods and you have an otherwise stock motor that will make 500 hp and 400+ ft torque turbo'd with cam, headwork and better engine management you get to about 800 hp before crank strength becomes and issue (btw its also a 2.8 liter engine). With that said what have can the cologne v6 do with mostly stock internals?

Ren

 

[Renny_D]

Google turbo 2.8 but with a bit more than stock internals :http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread.php?t=211372