TURBO 2.3 BABEY

[bathtub.toaster]

Planning out my turbo build for my 97 2.3. Found a donor 83 TBird and a decent T4 Garret turbo kit. Only thing left is the ECU. I've been researching options and have just come up short on what to do. I've seen people recommend the Tweecer RT but I've also read that it has several issues with usability and user friendliness. Megasquirt seems like the most viable option but have been lost on which one to even get. Just need some suggestions on a good standalone that's reasonably easy to use (and also preferably on the cheaper end).

 

[Blmpkn]

My plans are roughly the same with my 2.3, and I bought a tweecer rt. It's still living in the box it came in as I'm not to that point in the project yet but.. I dont see how it would be any worse than a full stand-alone.

I plan on paying the folks at tweecer for remote tuning.. because I'm nearly inept with a PC these days let alone trying to actually tune an EFI system.

 

[bathtub.toaster]

My plans are roughly the same with my 2.3, and I bought a tweecer rt. It's still living in the box it came in as I'm not to that point in the project yet but.. I dont see how it would be any worse than a full stand-alone.

I plan on paying the folks at tweecer for remote tuning.. because I'm nearly inept with a PC these days let alone trying to actually tune an EFI system.

A lot of people complain about it being buggy. My main issue is the fact that I gotta pay for a whole bunch of stuff on top of the Hardware. I'm looking to tune my setup, not get upsold.

 

[Blmpkn]

A lot of people complain about it being buggy. My main issue is the fact that I gotta pay for a whole bunch of stuff on top of the Hardware. I'm looking to tune my setup, not get upsold.

The software that YOU would need to tune it yourself is free to download.. at least it was last year when I bought mine. Pretty sure the program is even compatible with windows all the way back to XP lol so you don't even need a super current computer to run it.

 

[Blmpkn]

Just double checked their website... Everything you need to tune your rig is included in the package, and the software is free to download.

Other than that.. I personally thought their tuning services were pretty reasonably priced.. even for remote tuning.

The bugginess is not something that I have heard of.. but.. id be willing to bet it's an operator error deal by people messing with it personally rather than letting someone who knows what they're doing tune it.

 

[Mechrick]

On the two turbo Limas I built I used Megasquirts. My Mustang I used a V3.57 assembled version and on my Bronco I built a V3.0. These were both MS 1 boards. The Mustang used 63 lb/hr high impedance injectors. I don't recommend using the stock low impedance injectors for two reasons: One they tend to leak fuel, and two, they cause power supply noise with Megasquirts. I believe you can only get MS 2+ kits now, which is a slight added expense but superior hardware/software.

Do you have emissions testing in your area?

 

[scotts90ranger]

I hope you plan on mixmatching stuff for your engine build... I don't think an '83 is very desirable, don't remember if they had the good 8:1 forged pistons... but if they're forged and in good shape hone the N/A block and use new rings and go for it... all 2.3L rods are the same but '88 up crankshafts had smaller crank journals which is actually better...

I have no experience with aftermarket stuff though, most of my engine is a combo of '90 Ranger and '86 thunderbird... with modern injectors there's plenty of options for high impedance and high flow... the LS guys use stock E85 injectors to make a bunch of horsepower if I remember right... low impedance went out of style years ago until you get to silly horsepower...

 

[bathtub.toaster]

I hope you plan on mixmatching stuff for your engine build... I don't think an '83 is very desirable, don't remember if they had the good 8:1 forged pistons... but if they're forged and in good shape hone the N/A block and use new rings and go for it... all 2.3L rods are the same but '88 up crankshafts had smaller crank journals which is actually better...

I have no experience with aftermarket stuff though, most of my engine is a combo of '90 Ranger and '86 thunderbird... with modern injectors there's plenty of options for high impedance and high flow... the LS guys use stock E85 injectors to make a bunch of horsepower if I remember right... low impedance went out of style years ago until you get to silly horsepower...

That is indeed the plan, just need the headers and pistons from the donor, which I do believe came forged from the factory, as well as the bottom end so I don't have to fiddle around with poking holes in an engine. Machine shops aren't really available anywhere nearby so I'd rather avoid doing anything too complicated. I'm probably just gonna push about 10-12psi anyway tbh.

 

[scotts90ranger]

That is indeed the plan, just need the headers and pistons from the donor as well as the bottom end so I don't have to fiddle around with poking holes in an engine. Machine shops aren't really available anywhere nearby so I'd rather avoid doing anything too complicated. I'm probably just gonna push about 10-12psi anyway tbh.

Depends on what you mean by bottom end, the crank from an '83 will not bolt into a '97 block because of the main journal size difference but the crank isn't a weak spot... Literally the only difference between an N/A and turbo engine block is a single oil drainback hole that's a simple 1/2" NPT (national pipe thread), a tap alone on amazon is $9, a tap with drill bit is $13... if you use the stock drainback tube I think there's a boss on the blocks but haven't checked on my '97 but if you go with something else you can tap the oil pan instead...

Like I said before I would just keep the turbo pistons on their respective rods and put them into the '97 block with new bearings and rings, do a quick and easy hone (harbor freight hone is better than nothing) on reassembly and go for it.

One of these days I plan to do a mild turbo on my '97 but I'd leave it stock so limited to ~5psi... a little extra kick would help on my commute...

 

[bathtub.toaster]

Depends on what you mean by bottom end, the crank from an '83 will not bolt into a '97 block because of the main journal size difference but the crank isn't a weak spot... Literally the only difference between an N/A and turbo engine block is a single oil drainback hole that's a simple 1/2" NPT (national pipe thread), a tap alone on amazon is $9, a tap with drill bit is $13... if you use the stock drainback tube I think there's a boss on the blocks but haven't checked on my '97 but if you go with something else you can tap the oil pan instead...

Like I said before I would just keep the turbo pistons on their respective rods and put them into the '97 block with new bearings and rings, do a quick and easy hone (harbor freight hone is better than nothing) on reassembly and go for it.

One of these days I plan to do a mild turbo on my '97 but I'd leave it stock so limited to ~5psi... a little extra kick would help on my commute...

Oof, I thought it fit lol. That's fine, my NA just has 400k+ miles on it and I was hoping the internals could be swapped, but that's not that big a deal. As far as the oil line holes, one of my coworkers has his own shop and said he could get them in for me, all I have is a cheap drill that's wobbly as all hell so I'd rather someone else do it right the first time.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Pipe threads are the least precise threads possible, they're tapered so it matters even less... but hey, I get it...

Oof, with 400k on the N/A engine I would check the bore for a ledge at the top to see if it has much of a taper and compare it with the turbo engine... Swapping everything around is doable but it depends on what fuel system you use and how much tinkering you want to do... to get the new oil pan to work on the old engine you'll need to fill in the trough in the rear main cap, I made a mold out of a brake fluid can and melted some wheel weights then hammered the lead into the block (this worked way better than my previous attempt with JB weld). You would need to use the '97 front seal housing to get the crank sensor to work. The hard part is getting the cam sensor to work on the aux pulley since everything in that area of the blocks is different between an '83 and '97 since they moved the oil pump behind that pulley in '95 and all distributor stuff was removed then... You would get the best flow with the newer cylinder head but that doesn't leave room for the distributor which you would need at least the bulk of in there to drive the oil pump on the old block.

 

[bathtub.toaster]

Pipe threads are the least precise threads possible, they're tapered so it matters even less... but hey, I get it...

Oof, with 400k on the N/A engine I would check the bore for a ledge at the top to see if it has much of a taper and compare it with the turbo engine... Swapping everything around is doable but it depends on what fuel system you use and how much tinkering you want to do... to get the new oil pan to work on the old engine you'll need to fill in the trough in the rear main cap, I made a mold out of a brake fluid can and melted some wheel weights then hammered the lead into the block (this worked way better than my previous attempt with JB weld). You would need to use the '97 front seal housing to get the crank sensor to work. The hard part is getting the cam sensor to work on the aux pulley since everything in that area of the blocks is different between an '83 and '97 since they moved the oil pump behind that pulley in '95 and all distributor stuff was removed then... You would get the best flow with the newer cylinder head but that doesn't leave room for the distributor which you would need at least the bulk of in there to drive the oil pump on the old block.

Yeah, I'm hoping the wear isn't that bad, previous owner said he rebuilt the engine at 300k but idk what exactly was "rebuilt", so I'll have to wait and see until I break apart the NA. If the cylinders are tapered, I'll hope it's still ok enough to bore out and I'll just fork over the cash for some new pistons. Would just have to drive 3 hours for the nearest machine shop, but I've driven farther for less.
As far as ECU is going, I found some unassmbled MS2 v3.0 standalones for waayyyyy cheaper than anything pre built. Just some solder work, which is right up my alley of expertise. Donor car also has a T5 I'm excited to use. Hopefully it's usable.

 

[Mechrick]

If you are buying forged pistons anyway, consider using a small main journal block, 2.5 Ranger crank, 2.3 rods (the old casting number, not the newer powdered metal ones), and Wiseco custom dished pistons. Wiseco used to make them for Esslinger for that particular combination, I built one. Horrible rod/stroke ratio (which is overrated) but one of the best engines I've ever built.