• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

ttb lift questions


swynx

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2008
Messages
2,401
Age
33
City
lewiston idaho
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Manual
earlyer today i posted asking about sas, well i got a call from my girl friends dad saying hes got 2 rangers that 2 customers drove in and theres seems to be nothing wrong with them. but after all its a junkyard. so something has got to be wrong. any ways i can have both of them for 900$

:yahoo:

one of them is a 89 with a 2.9 4x4 5 speed the other is a 91 4.0 5 speed 4x4, both super cabs. niether of them lifted.

ive owned 3 rangers and an explorer before but never really lifted them.

i wanted to run 35" tires, and i was wondering how strong is the dana 35 ttb. im the kind of guy that drives with a egg under the gas peddle, only place i let loose is when i start slowing down in the mud.

i had a 1988 yota with ifs and 35's and had no problem with it. i know ill get more flex out of the ttb. and as far as strength goes i read a little bit some where that you can basicly swap on all the parts from a dana 44 ttb... is this true? how much effect on strength would it have? what all parts can be swapped over?

really just lookin to get another 4x4 ranger under me till i get all the parts for a possible sas swap.
 
from what i have read the 44 and the 35 dont have much difference to them and the 35 i beleive can handle 35's but u gotta regear ofcourse now u are right u can get alot more travel out of a ttb rather than a sas now i would take that 91 with the 4.0 in it and build that u will thank yourself with that added power. one thing if u wanna build the ttb for travel it will cost around the same as a sas but might be better for what u use it for right now i have everything i wanna do planned out and it includes using the 35 ttb but of course it all comes down to money and being 18 with 2 felonies and 6 missdamenors from back when i was being dumb its stopping me from getting a job so mine will be a while down the road.
 
I'm going to be running 35's on a D-35, it should be just fine. I ran 33's on a D-28 with a locker for awhile, but I blew out two front shafts (one got straight up shattered, I was in mud up to the frame and on the go pedal when it went with a BANG. Blew the ears off the stub shaft and snapped the splines off in the diff. Didn't blow a U-joint cap either. The other spit two caps while I was in 2wd with the hubs locked doing about 45-50 mph down the road).

Lifting is easy for TTB and can be done rather cheaply. I took the cheap route with my first build, but I'm upgrading my extended radius arms this time around so it's costing me a little more. I found someone with a used lift kit (3" James Duff coils and axle pivot drops), added a set of F-150 spring perches, got some extended arms fabbed up using some scraps and leftover parts, and got a drop pitman arm for the front. For the back I used 4-door explorer leafs with an extra leaf in the pack and chevy 1500 drop shackles. Got me about 5" all around. For shocks I just got ones that would fit from the local auto parts store, ran me around $100 all the way around. Then I did a 2" body lift.

You can swap knuckles and outers from a D-44 to a D-35, all it does is give you a little stronger stub shaft and stronger wheel bearings, both axles use the same U-joints.

I opted to put full circle clips on the U-joints and stick with D-35 outers for the time being, I already have more money sunk into this project than I want to right now. Plus I want to stick with the 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern for the wheels (D-44 outers will give you a 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern).

The 91 Ranger should have a D-35 under the front. The 89 will most likely have a D-28 unless someone upgraded it somewhere along the line.
 
i had planned on using the 91 with the 4.0 assuming nothing is wrong. im sure ill get there and find something wrong, thats how it is every time i pick something up from him.

ill probably order up a 4 inch lift and a 2 inch body lift, then cram 35-12.5's under there and if it rubs ill rip out the saw and trim it up till it quits rubbing.
 
Don't forget about gears... you'll want at LEAST 4.10 gears to turn 35's. 4.56, 4.88 or 5.13 gears would be better.

IMHO, I'd just build a lift. Get a set of drop brackets, get some coils (Jeep, EB, etc... take your pick), get an extreme drop pitman arm, use Explorer leafs in the back with an extra leaf or two and chevy drop shackles - whatever it takes to level it out. I got my 2" body lift from James Duff, they had the better deal when I got it and I replaced my body mount bushings with poly from them while I was at it.

FWIW, you can get 34x10.5x15 Super Swamper LTBs fairly reasonable if you want an aggressive mud tire.
 
Perfect suspension for a DD/Weekend warrior would be 4" suspension with set of flexy EB coils, extended radius arms, WARN 37780s, 760X u-joints, skyjacker drop brackets, limited slip Dana35, F250 shock towers for the front with a set of 2" lift chevy 63s with belltech shackles, a disc brake locked ford 8.8, and a single piece steel driveshaft for starters. Then cut the fenders to fit you 35's.

Then grab a BW1354M

^That's just for starters :D

Am I missing anything guys?
 
I'm not a fan of the chevy leafs though....

I'd rather go with something more interesting (and likely more flexible) like a 3/4 or 1/2 elliptical....
 
I'm not a fan of the chevy leafs though....

I'd rather go with something more interesting (and likely more flexible) like a 3/4 or 1/2 elliptical....

i hate to be a fan boy but id also rather keep it ford and run the 54 inch leafs. im not sure what ill do for gearing, seeing as i might also be lookin for the parts to do an sas, id hate to buy new gears just to swap it out a few months later.

i never do rock crawling, its mainly snow, mud and slick hills, but the hills arent any thing i couldnt crawl with 1st gear, all the trails i run around here i ran with 4.10s on 35s with a 22r, well just have to see where it goes. assuming that rear end has 3.73's the 35's will probably make it something near 3.23. so ill most likely have to regear cuz that would be horrible.

quite possibly ill just lift the ttb on the cheap side, and wheel it till it breaks. atm ive just got this damn saturn and being summer time i really wanna hit the trails. and since im in college and gonna stop working soon sas might not be my best option.
 
Im running 35's on both my Ranger (BOGGERs) and Explorer. They both get wheeled pretty hard
IMG_7735.jpg

IMG_0169.jpg

And the D35 has held up (both are locked as well). They will break of course if you get really crazy with them, but if you use your head somewhat, you'll be fine. I have 4:88's in the Explorer and 4:56's in the Ranger. The V-8 in the Ranger makes up for the gears in the Ranger. The 4:88's and the 4.0 are pretty good, but I wish I would have waited for the 5:13's (mainly for the crawl factor).
 
Im running 35's on both my Ranger (BOGGERs) and Explorer. They both get wheeled pretty hard
IMG_7735.jpg

IMG_0169.jpg

And the D35 has held up (both are locked as well). They will break of course if you get really crazy with them, but if you use your head somewhat, you'll be fine. I have 4:88's in the Explorer and 4:56's in the Ranger. The V-8 in the Ranger makes up for the gears in the Ranger. The 4:88's and the 4.0 are pretty good, but I wish I would have waited for the 5:13's (mainly for the crawl factor).

its nice to have your input it really helps on gear choices. i dont much care for the crawl factor, and like i said i ran a 22r with 4.10s and 35's that thing was slow. took what seemed 5 mins to reach 65 floored 1-2-3 gear. id probably throw 4.88s under it, seeing as itll not see much road use and the 4.0 will make up for it. im not the hammer down type of driver. never broken an axle.
 
I'd never use 4.10s on anything larger than a 32-33. I have 4.56's on my 33's and love it.

And piece together a lift like mentioned earlier. Saves money and gives you superior lift.

And let me just ask... You'd rather use an inferior product bc it's ford and the step up is chevy. I bleed as blue as any of y'all; but that's crazy talk in my head lol. The 63's ride better, lift easily, and flex a crap ton better.
 
just a preferance thing, not alot of trails around here require tons of flex. not saying i wouldnt do it. im just one of those guys who doesnt like to mix and match, rather keep it all ford, all toyota, all chevy... etc.
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top