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trying to change my pick up coil


increasinglyhumbled

Active Member
Joined
May 15, 2012
Messages
39
City
Asheville, North Carolina
Vehicle Year
1988
Transmission
Manual
how do I get this thing out of the way?

IMG02571-20120922-1526_zpsf18712a5.jpg
 
I have taken out what I can only assume is the distributor hold down bolt, I can't identify anything that looks to be an octane rod. I expected to be able to lift the shaft out at this point. What did I miss?
 
Take the distributor hold down out, it is right behind the dis, a 1/2" bolt. Then take the dis out of the engine, turn it over, find the pin that goes through the gear and knock it out, I find a small nail works well. Then the gear will come off with a little persuasion. Hold the top end with your hand, work the gear with a pair of pliers. It will come off. Then the shaft will pull out of the distributor housing.
 
I'm assuming it's the hole I cleared free of gunk to the right of the gear, but there are 4 holes, one on the opposite end and then the other 2 are smaller. Want to be sure before I start hammering away.
 
That is the right hole. Take a small nail, tap it a few times until you can get a grip on the pin from the other side, then pull it out. The gear is tight, but not an interference fit. It will pull off, but you either need to set it in a vice and tap the shaft off the gear, or work it back and forth with some pliers.

DON'T forget to put the pin back in. It will run ok for a week and then it will run awfully as the timing becomes variable as the gear moves back and forth on the shaft.
 
Glad to help man. Remember to set her over to #1 TDC and then set the rotor between the two marks on the top of the dis housing.
 
TDC=Top Dead Center
Rotate the engine with finger over sparkplug hole, stop cranking immediately when you feel air push out. Turn engine back to line up timing marks at 0 degrees. Install 'dis' as per adsm08's instructions.
Good luck,

Richard
 
Oh, almost forgot. The dis/cam gear has a helical cut (as you have already seen) and so the distributor shaft will rotate as the gears engage. When you go to install it the rotor should be just counter clockwise of the first line and sitting right between the two marks when fully seated.
 
I'll have to read more about TDC#1, rotating the engine and spark plug hole farts tomorrow. I was pretty comfortable with setting the rotor in place...figured that was going to be the extent of it.
 
If the engine hasn't rotated since dis removal, re-install in the same orientation and you should be good. My first post is for when the crank has been rotated.

Richard
 
Thought you guys would get a kick out of this. I realized today that after my last tune up, the shop (who had also completely denied breaking the handle on my rear door and rearranging all of my fuses in the worst positions possible) also put the wires on the distributor completely wrong. I'm now assuming that was the problem with it not starting the entire time. It reinforces my decision to start learning to do this stuff myself.
 
Also, a lesson in problem solving starting with the easiest least likely problem and working my way up. I've been f$@#ing with everything else for a month now. I don't regret it though, it taught me a lot more than i knew before and has given me a lot of confidence about learning more.

Thanks again for your support. This is a great forum.
 

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