Truck wants to wander with new steering components.

[lnrdr]

I have a 96 2wd ranger with 200k miles that I just put all new ball joints, tie rod ends and a new steering gear in and the truck wants to wander as it goes down the road. I tightened up the steering box because at first it seemed there was no tension. Now I have tension but it still wants to roam or lag a little while going down the road. Do you think I just need to bleed the power steering a bit or could it need a new "flex" "rag" coupling? any kind of suggestions will be helpful.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Did you have an alignment done afterwards? If not there lies your problem.

 

[4x4junkie]

Can you elaborate on how you "tightened up the steering box", as the only adjustment on it would create severe binding right on center if it's set too tight (it's supposed to be tight enough to eliminate the play, but while still allowing it to turn freely)?

And agreed, the alignment should always be checked any time you replace suspension components in the frontend.

 

[lnrdr]

Well a buddy of mine helped me get he alignment back into place and we got rid of the wander. I knew I had to get it in for an alignment but haven't gotten to it yet. I actually had it close when I first got everything back together. Then I tinkered with it since I had it up on the jack stands to adjust the steering lash which was when I decided to try and make it better then messed it, the alignment, all up.

Here is the method I used to tighten up the steering. I loosened the lock nut on top of the steering box and tightened the screw until I got everything to where it felt right. It feels like im driving my Crossfire now when I go down the road instead of my 85 Chevy.



http://en.allexperts.com/q/Ford-Repair-811/Steering-Box-Adjustment.htm

 

[4x4junkie]

The way you really should do it is disconnect the steering linkage from the pitman arm, and then tighten the box JUST to the point you start to feel a slight bind as you turn the wheel across dead-center. Then back it off JUST enough to get rid of the bind. Tighten it up (while re-checking it) and you're done.

Adjusting the wheel alignment MUST be done with full weight on the tires (suspension at it's normal static ride height). Any time it's jacked up or not supported anywhere else but directly under the tires, the ride height will change, resulting in the alignment not being correct.

Hope you get it all figured out (and welcome to the forums )