Truck spit out 6 engine codes - help sorting out what's what

[Clumzi]

Howdy howdy

So got a code checker for Christmas and finally got around to using it. It spit the following codes;

14
18
33
41
51
88

I reset the codes per the instructions in the book and they come right back. This is from the KOEO test and they are all continuous memory codes.

14 is a mystery to me. Book says Electronic Control Assembly has detected an intermittent loss of Profile Ignition Pick-up (PIP) signal during recent operation. Might of been from knocking a wire loose while changing plug 4 on the intake side.

18 is weird. Truck doesn't have a tachometer, so does this mean DIS problem?

33 - no idea what's up the EGR. Maybe previous owner blocked it off already? Haven't opened it up.

41 - O2 sensor?

51 - wtf? Temp gauge works - not sure what this is?

88 - Again, weird. FWIW I tried the dual coil plug mod and it made the truck run worse.

So yea, truck runs rather well so I was surprised it spit so many codes.

Thoughts? Ideas?

 

[adsm08]

14 means it isn't seeing the signal it expects to for the spark timing input.

18 has very little to do with a tach. It indicates a wiring issue most likely.

33 means the valve is possibly stuck open, or the sensor is bad. It means it's not seeing it close correctly, so a block-off by a previous owner is out of the question.

41 That's where I would start.

51 There is one sensor for the gauge on the dash, one for the computer. This code refers to the sensor for the computer.

88 This is the oddest of them all to me, mostly because I am unfamiliar with the dual plug systems.

I am not familiar with the dual plug system, but I understand enough of Ford to make a few educated guesses. I would bet that 14, 18, and 88 are all related. Also, if I understand how these signals are routed correctly I believe those are all functions of the EDIS module. It may be at fault.


It runs well because it is in default mode.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

My guess here is you have a intermittent wiring issue you allways address the lowest number first. Pull all the connectors apart and clean with electrical cleaner and use dielectric grease to put them back together. That includes all the sensors and use a jewelers screwdriver to push all the pins in fully from the back side. Clean and inspect all the wiring good especially around the exhaust repair any bare cracked or broken wires. Pull all the grounds apart and sand metal to metal including components that use the mount as a ground. Once your sure the wiring is all good then erase the memory and reset the computer by disconnecting the battery for 1/2 an hour. Then take it for a road trip at medium speeds for at least 20 minutes and pull the codes again. Oh yea be sure and clean the grounds for the computer also there should be two or three your issue could be a bad ground for the computer? If you still get codes fix them one at a time starting with the lowest number erase the memory reset the computer and confirm the repair if you get the 14 to go away likely most of the others will also.

 

[RonD]

51 can mean ECT sensors wires are shorted together or ECT sensor is bad.
Or engine is running SUPER HOT

On the 2.3l the ECT sensor is on the drivers side of the block, toward the front and below intake manifold.
You can often see it easier through the wheel well.
It is a 2 wire sensor.
ECT sensors rarely fail, not never just rarely, so check wires first.
Then test sensor with OHM meter, cold engine should have high OHMs, 2,000+

 

[Clumzi]

This is super helpful, thank you. I'll bet you wouldn't be surprised to learn the battery slowly drains out . Sounds like a bad ground / bad connection somewhere. For at least part of these.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Check your EEC relay I had that problem once and the relay was stuck on so the computer was allways powered up.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

With the key off check for voltage to the throttle position senser there should be none. If your seeing around 5 volts on one of the pins pull the EEC relay and see if it goes away. If so replace the relay and try it again. Indirect shorts can be a bitch to find but if you want to save the charging system you need to find it.

 

[Clumzi]

So I bought the EEC relay (prematurely, I won't argue ) and found pictures online to locate the sucker and wow. How in heck? I couldn't even unplug the relay connector.

So - access to the relays beneath the fuse box. Should I take out the airbox to get down there? It looks like there are just two bolts holding the whole power distribution assembly - should I unbolt it from the side of the engine compartment?

 

[Clumzi]

Update: Down to 3 codes. I left the battery disconnected last night. Hooked everything back up and did about 70 miles with the truck today and re-pulled the codes. All that's left is...

18
33
88

18 and 88 seem related and (hopefully) have to do w/ the EEC Relay. 33 seems must related to the EGR (right?).

 

[adsm08]

Well, since 33 is an EGR code, then yes, it must be related to the EGR system.

 

[RonD]

So I bought the EEC relay (prematurely, I won't argue ) and found pictures online to locate the sucker and wow. How in heck? I couldn't even unplug the relay connector.

So - access to the relays beneath the fuse box. Should I take out the airbox to get down there? It looks like there are just two bolts holding the whole power distribution assembly - should I unbolt it from the side of the engine compartment?

Yes, unbolt the power distribution box.

33 could just be the EGR valve's vacuum line has a leak

Yes 18, 88 are together, most likely the ICM is failing, it is a common failure on 2.3l dual coil ignitions, but............it can often get worn wires so check the connector

Have a read here also:
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=72903
page two has results

 

[Clumzi]

Well, since 33 is an EGR code, then yes, it must be related to the EGR system.

Thank you

 

[Clumzi]

Yes, unbolt the power distribution box.

33 could just be the EGR valve's vacuum line has a leak

Yes 18, 88 are together, most likely the ICM is failing, it is a common failure on 2.3l dual coil ignitions, but............it can often get worn wires so check the connector

Have a read here also:
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=72903
page two has results

Based on that thread, yea, does sound a lot like the ICM. I'll try the EEC relay first because based on the battery draining issue I'm still hoping that does it. If it doesn't, I'm hoping O'Reilly's has a generous return policy .

 

[Clumzi]

Update: I double checked the fuse box - turns out a 60a fuse was one slot over where it should've been. Swore I already checked my fuses! Anywho, moved the fuse over, reset the computer. Now it seems I've just got one code left. The 33 code went away and the 51 code came back.

Weird