Truck/Axle Ideas for 600 mile Office Trailer Move

[dccarpenter]

Hello all, everyone here has helped me with my Rangers over the years so I thought there might be some wisdom for me on this project.

I've got a 8' wide by 28' long standard office trailer (t1-111 siding, relatively flat roof). It is empty at the moment, in great shape, rolling rear door, office area at the front with singe desk. Wired with breaker panel and plugs.

Going to be building a house in Kentucky and wanted to use it as jobsite trailer and camper and then convert it to a guest house with the same log siding, pine floors/paneling , etc.. as the house. Will pull off the roof and stick frame a gable onto it at that point. It isn't super heavy as is, don't know the weight but I towed it 5 miles to here on country roads with a '95 F250 with a 351 and it wasn't killing it or sagging the rear ridiculously.

Googling around seems to indicate 5000-6000 pounds perhaps but can't seem to find a weight, called the company that rents them around here and they weren't sure the weight.

The existing axle hasn't been serviced for years, if ever, and is likely a mobile home axle meant for not super long trips. It probably regularly got towed to jobsites around this area about 50 miles at most. I was thinking of just buying a new 96" axle in the heaviest capacity I can find with new leaf springs, etc.. and electric brakes. I'd rather not throw 2 axles under it since it will never move again once it gets to Kentucky but is a brand new single axle with brand new tires suitable for the 600 mile run? If anyone has seen these axles serviced successfully to handle a trip of that distance I'd definitely consider keeping the existing and just replacing the tires. It's not a rust bucket.

As for tow vehicles, I have access to a mid-2000's f350 regular cab with the 5.4 ...not sure that motor would get it through the mountains of Western MD and WVa on 68 and 79. They aren't anything compared to out west but my 351 windsor f250 (albeit the motor was pretty worn out) didn't love towing a 3000lb boat on the same trip so I can't imagine the rolling brick of an office trailer at double that weight would be so smooth. Also got a shipping quote of $2,750 to have someone haul it there for me but prefer doing things myself when I can. Willing to send it out there mostly empty to make the trip easy on the axle/tow vehicle. I'm content to drive slow and in the middle of the night for no traffic if the 5.4 can handle it, with all the necessary prep like trans cooler, weight distribution hitch, fresh tires, etc..

 

[Curious Hound]

I would want 2 axles under it and brakes on at least one of them. Making it move is easy. Controlling and stopping it are different matters. If your weight estimate is accurate, the 5.4l should tow it alright. Might not have a lot of pep. But it will do the job. If it's an automatic, make sure there is lots of cooling capacity for the transmission.

 

[bobbywalter]

...,.mmmmmm





Look at the bearings. Likely just need packed.


Figure 400 to 600 for tires.


600 fuel.

1200....

I know that route. Lose the trans and that cost is high ...


how much to buy one local....and sell that one local?


tough call

I would do it if the bearings were good and tires cheap.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Pack the bearings and grab a couple spare tires, keep it around 55 youll be fine

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Do you have to go by any weigh scales?
Make sure the tire ratings add up to more than the weight of the trailer. Which might mean two axles.

 

[dccarpenter]

Thanks for everyone's replies so far. Reason for not buying one local is that I am not going to be starting the house project for a 18 to 24 months(and will be working on it in bursts) but would like to enjoy the property by the lake in the meantime. I can get this existing trailer fitted out here at my shop with a nice interior, floor, etc, bath, etc.. prior to taking it out there as time allows over next few months and use it for a week here and there the next couple of years. Won't add anything heavy like cabinetry or furniture just ceiling, wall , and floor finishes.

I have used it as a office at my shop for the past year and know it to be leakfree and solid.

I remember taking 81 back from Nashville to MD towing a 26' Airstream in a 1/2 ton truck not being that bad. Maybe I'd be better off taking the longer route and taking 66West to 81 South to west 64 and then going down south towards Somerset after I hit Lexington, KY. 66 West out of DC definitely isn't anywhere close to as hilly as 68 and 79, and I don't recall 81 being the equal of 79.

I have a scale near my house at the dump , I will check the tire rating issue out before I head out regardless. I would have already but the current tires I don't want to move around on. Will either replace/repair axle and get new tires and then weigh prior to the trip. Thanks for the heads up. I will be traveling overnight to avoid traffic so I'll probably miss any scales. It'll technically be a 'recreational travel trailer' and be registered as such at that point which should exempt me as well on that front but I'll make sure I'm legal regardless. I know I'll be within the truck's tow rating.

 

[sgtsandman]

While you are doing the axle work, make sure the brakes are functional and check that all the marker, brake, and turn signals work.

Trailers are notorious for their wiring issues. Since you are going to be doing some traveling through mountainous country in MD and WV, it is absolutely paramount all the brakes work. Otherwise, you could be testing out how well those runaway truck ramps work.

 

[ryan]

Brakes would be the most important thing to me. My previous tow rig was that era 5.4 and it hauled that kind of weight fine. My JK on the trailer was closer to 8k and I never had any problems with hills. I'd keep it at 65 and it was fine.

 

[dccarpenter]

While you are doing the axle work, make sure the brakes are functional and check that all the marker, brake, and turn signals work.

Trailers are notorious for their wiring issues. Since you are going to be doing some traveling through mountainous country in MD and WV, it is absolutely paramount all the brakes work. Otherwise, you could be testing out how well those runaway truck ramps work.

I appreciate the words of warning, I plan to completely re-wire the trailer from scratch with a new harness and everything to ensure lights and brakes are working properly.

I know a guy who is an experienced heavy duty truck mechanic I'm going to see if he'll go through the axles with me and we can test the brakes while disassembled to ensure everything is working well.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

I agree with the guys...Give it some love, lube and fresh rubber....and cruise it easy. Any 3/4 or 1 ton will pull that no problem. Get a good hitch of proper height. Balance of a level trailer really helps the handling.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I wouldn’t worry about the axles too much, definitely service the brakes and bearings and get good rubber on it. Check the U bolts, shackles and hangers. Dad has an old equipment trailer and back then pretty much all smaller trailers used mobile home axles, that’s the way they were made then. Tires seem to wear down fairly quickly (only would get a few years out of them), and they are a bit of a pain to make sure they are tightened down evenly so the spin true, but I wouldn’t be afraid of using them for the move. Two axles and trailer brakes make things a lot nicer to tow.