Triple Gauge Install

[mercuryseven]

I've grown tired of the vague water temp/oil pressure and volt meter on the Ranger and I'm installing a three gauge set on the truck. It seems pretty straightforward with a few modifications to the kit but I'm hoping some light can be shed on the following:

(This is a 3.0 2002 Edge - The kit is a mechanical Autometer Water Temp/Oil Pressure/Volts)

Where is the best place to route the wires/lines through the firewall? I can imagine there is a grommet of some sort under there but if someone knows of a simple way of running 1/2" bundle of wire through the drivers-ish side...

Where is the best place to run the hot wire for the volt meter? I was assuming the ignition fuse at the box - is there a better place? Someone told me the alternator and that sounded ridiculous.

Can I simply remove the stock water temp sending unit, seal off the wire to the dash and install my sender? Or is that unit somehow kicking the fan on and off or otherwise doing more than simply flicking a needle on an instrument panel? If that's not an option, is there a place on the manifold or block I can install another w/t sending unit - like a secondary location?

Same with the oil pressure. I was going to remove the sending unit, cap the wire and install my sender - is this going to fly or is something else going on I'm not aware of? This is the one I'm most concerned about, because if it's not done right, the reading will be totally inaccurate, so Id like to avoid a t-adaptor or anything like that.

From what I can see so far, these stock sending units simply relay information to an electronic dash - they have no mechanical or otherwise diagnostic function outside of a needle...but again, I'm not entirely sure. Can I just disconnect my oil pressure/water temp/volts on my dash or will it send my check engine light aglow? I've seen these same pods installed on these trucks and I'm sure I'm making too big a deal over it but I'd like to skip any problems before they arise if possible; there's no telling what is and isn't controlled by a computer on this thing.

It's being mounted underneath where the airbag key is, sort of tilted up - in tidy little pods - it would look pretty clean. They're horizontally mounted, 1 1/2" gauges, backlit mechanical feed. The stock copper oil pressure tubing and compression fittings have been replaced with 300psi steel braided hose and barbed couplers. I didn't get the electronic gauges because I already had these gauges, brand new in a box - I figured, what the hell. I know it's not optimum for an electronic engine, but I'm sure it's doable...

Thanks in advance for any tips or suggestions.

 

[hoosier1104]

Honestly you are better off with full sweep electric. That is what I have and love them.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I started out with mechanical oil presssure and coolant temp, I don't mind the temp but I don't like the liability of having an oil line running into the cab so I actually just ordered an electric one Saturday.

Anyways, if you have room there is no issue with running a T for the oil pressure, pressure is pressure and it won't hurt a thing. A T may make the temperature gauges read a little low since they are out of the coolant stream but they will still be pretty close. You will learn what the norm is for your truck and will know when it gets out of that norm. You are only measuring the coolant temp at that one spot in the engine, it is warmer in some places and cooler than others so it is not dead nuts correct anyway.

I do know it is very dishearting to glance down and see the oil pressure pegged out at nothing, I never did get used to it. Luckily I have ample places to tap with my 302 now so I can at least get it to do something, the fuel pump was in the way of a T on my 2.8.

There should actually two temp sensers, one for the gauge and one for the computer. DO NOT REMOVE THE ONE FOR THE COMPUTER.

 

[Snoranger]

It's being mounted underneath where the airbag key is, sort of tilted up - in tidy little pods - it would look pretty clean.

Thanks in advance for any tips or suggestions.

Here's a suggestion:

 

[03ranger30]

Where are you getting the kit, cause the last time I checked, no one makes a pillar pod kit for the newer Rangers.

 

[mercuryseven]

Where are you getting the kit, cause the last time I checked, no one makes a pillar pod kit for the newer Rangers.

Nobody except a machinist friend of mine.

 

[mercuryseven]

Soooo......no actual answers?

Surely someone knows more than, "You should buy this instead!"...

I'll start simple: Where is the best place to go through the firewall?

 

[--weezl--]

i put virtually everything through the giant ass rubber boot that the steering column goes through, but you HAVE to make sure that it's tied off VERY well on both sides, and that nothing ever gets caught on the steering column, that's just a huge accident waiting to happen! (trust me, i didn't tie one of my wires off well enough, and almost had an accident)

as for the "sensors" oil, as someone else said, a T is actually the best way to do it... i had all the parts to to a mechanical oil pressure gauge in my mustang, ting it between the electronic sensor and the block, but never got around to it... use brass fittings and liquid teflon, if it's nice and tight, it will never leak also make sure you put the compression fittings together correctly, if they ferril isn't seated properly, it WILL leak oil, and can leak it from either end of the hose

as for coolant temp, if you've got an extra water jacket plug, put it in there, i would try to avoid ting that, but it's not a big deal... as for volt meter, i'm not too sure, personally, i would take the positive directly off the battery, or off the alternator (yes this is fine) and use a switched ground

last but not least, no need to double post, there's an edit button there that helps keep the thread cleaner and easier to read... and no need to get snippy "Soooo......no actual answers?" this is an internet forum, where you are getting FREE advice, not a mechanics shop where you are paying for the info you get... so take what you do get, and thank people for the help

 

[Snoranger]

Soooo......no actual answers?

Surely someone knows more than, "You should buy this instead!"...

I'll start simple: Where is the best place to go through the firewall?

Stick your head under there and look. Then you dont need to imagine.


The mechanical gauges are more accurate then electrical. Electrical gauges are susceptible to changes in voltage. The only thing better about electrical gauges is that they are a little easier to install.
The braided steel line, properly installed, will never leak.

There are 2 coolant temp sensors on the 4.0l SOHC: (the 3.0l should be the same.)
The 1 for the computer is grey.
The 1 for the gauge is brown/ redish.


Mounting the gauges that low is kind of a waste. You really want them in your normal line of sight. If and when something happens you will notice it right away. With the gauges that low, you only glace down once in a while. You may lose oil pressure and not look down at the gauge for 10+ seconds. Thats why I built the custom radio bezel / gauge mount.

 

[mercuryseven]

Stick your head under there and look. Then you dont need to imagine.


The mechanical gauges are more accurate then electrical. Electrical gauges are susceptible to changes in voltage. The only thing better about electrical gauges is that they are a little easier to install.
The braided steel line, properly installed, will never leak.

There are 2 coolant temp sensors on the 4.0l SOHC: (the 3.0l should be the same.)
The 1 for the computer is grey.
The 1 for the gauge is brown/ redish.


Mounting the gauges that low is kind of a waste. You really want them in your normal line of sight. If and when something happens you will notice it right away. With the gauges that low, you only glace down once in a while. You may lose oil pressure and not look down at the gauge for 10+ seconds. Thats why I built the custom radio bezel / gauge mount.

That is a pretty sweet mount - how did you pull that off?

 

[Snoranger]

That is a pretty sweet mount - how did you pull that off?

Check my build thread link in my sig. I started building it on page 3.


Quick overview... I grafted a cheap 3 gauge pod into a stock radio bezel.

 

[mercuryseven]

Check my build thread link in my sig. I started building it on page 3.


Quick overview... I grafted a cheap 3 gauge pod into a stock radio bezel.

That's really nice - where did the vents route to? Or were they just capped?

 

[mercuryseven]

i put virtually everything through the giant ass rubber boot that the steering column goes through, but you HAVE to make sure that it's tied off VERY well on both sides, and that nothing ever gets caught on the steering column, that's just a huge accident waiting to happen! (trust me, i didn't tie one of my wires off well enough, and almost had an accident)

as for the "sensors" oil, as someone else said, a T is actually the best way to do it... i had all the parts to to a mechanical oil pressure gauge in my mustang, ting it between the electronic sensor and the block, but never got around to it... use brass fittings and liquid teflon, if it's nice and tight, it will never leak also make sure you put the compression fittings together correctly, if they ferril isn't seated properly, it WILL leak oil, and can leak it from either end of the hose

as for coolant temp, if you've got an extra water jacket plug, put it in there, i would try to avoid ting that, but it's not a big deal... as for volt meter, i'm not too sure, personally, i would take the positive directly off the battery, or off the alternator (yes this is fine) and use a switched ground

last but not least, no need to double post, there's an edit button there that helps keep the thread cleaner and easier to read... and no need to get snippy "Soooo......no actual answers?" this is an internet forum, where you are getting FREE advice, not a mechanics shop where you are paying for the info you get... so take what you do get, and thank people for the help

In regards to the firewall - is it out of the question to just punch a new hole through the firewall and use a large grommet (Similar to an aircraft firewall)?

On the water front, basically anywhere there is circulating water, correct? So even a T into a heater hose? I'm tempted to just put it in the existing WT sensor hole, but I cant seem to get a conclusive answer on whether it's sending info to a computer. Even the mech was iffy on it...

The oil feed is steel braided with one addition - it will be hard lined in the cab, there is feed line compression fit and soldered at the gauge, it will run out the firewall and get a barb end compression fit and soldered to it - from there, steel braided hose will take it to the block sensor. I'll T it off to avoid any computer mishaps.

Sorry for the repost - and for the reply. It was actually intended as a PM to a long winded reply that simply instructed me to buy a bunch of different stuff. How I managed to post it in the thread is a mystery.

Thanks a bunch for the info.

 

[Snoranger]

Capped for now. I plan on making an overhead vent system, like the rear HVAC on some vans and SUVs, only in the front.

 

[fyre82]

I am just starting the second part of a thread on the gauge upgrade for gen 1, 2.9.I know they are not the same but basics are basics.

It's not including basics like disconnect the battery . . .

The original thread:
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114625

You should get instructions on how to hook up your electrical gauge.
The Dorman kit i have, has a separate page for each one.

Rich