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Transmission Replacement


cubewhiz

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2010
Messages
209
City
Kearny, NJ
Vehicle Year
1989
Engine
2.9 V6
Transmission
Manual
Total Lift
1"
Tire Size
31x10.5R15
1989 6 cyl 5 spd 4WD

4th gear is gone. 1st & 2nd grind if you don't drive them in the "sweet spot." 3rd doesn't like to let go at slow speeds (for example, when stopped).

Would it be best to replace this transmission or rebuild it? What can I expect either to cost (if I were to do the work myself) and how much time is associated with each?

I'm off during the summer, so I will have the time to devote to this project regardless of which it is, but I'm looking for opinions about which route is better.

Thanks.
 
Get an M5OD. It should be pretty much bolt in and will be stronger.
 
x2 on the replacement. simpler and cheaper than doing the rebuild. if you go the M5OD, do put a new internal slave in it before you bolt it up. heard they are a real pain to replace as you have to drop the whole tranny to do it. just a thought.
 
1989 6 cyl 5 spd 4WD

4th gear is gone. 1st & 2nd grind if you don't drive them in the "sweet spot." 3rd doesn't like to let go at slow speeds (for example, when stopped).

Would it be best to replace this transmission or rebuild it? What can I expect either to cost (if I were to do the work myself) and how much time is associated with each?

I'm off during the summer, so I will have the time to devote to this project regardless of which it is, but I'm looking for opinions about which route is better.

Thanks.

Here is what I did in 2007 when my tranny took a dump in my 1996 ranger 4x4, I just bit the bullet and had the ford dealership do it and I got a 3 year/75,000 warranty

New transmission = $2168.68

Labor = $494.78

Tax = $198.43

TOTAL = $2861.89

No problems so far:icon_thumby:

Good luck
 
I dunno, I paid out about $1600 to replace my trans myself, and I used a used trans. Sounds like he didn't get such a bad deal.
 
WOW!!! that kind of money would probably buy another truck.

Indeed I only paid 2500 for it when I bought it in 2003. It was problem free for about 5 years and 40K miles.
 
i just got a rebuild kit for $180. it took me about 5hrs total for a full rebuild, but i've done trannies before. the kit didn't come with reverse or 5th synchros because you have to count the number of teeth on them. i ordered a reverse synchro for less than $10
 
i just got a rebuild kit for $180. it took me about 5hrs total for a full rebuild, but i've done trannies before. the kit didn't come with reverse or 5th synchros because you have to count the number of teeth on them. i ordered a reverse synchro for less than $10

What else DOESN'T come with a rebuild kit? Is there anything else worth replacing while you're in there?
 
What else DOESN'T come with a rebuild kit? Is there anything else worth replacing while you're in there?

my kit didn't come with the needle bearings that go under each driven gear(these normally don't need to be replaced, mine were still good).

if you get a master kit it will come with everything.

to get the thing apart you'll remove everything, so you won't miss anything.

there are 2 steel balls inside that you need to pay attention and not lose. there is one under the speedo drive gear, and 1 under the countershaft spacer
 
I'm leaning towards swapping in the M5OD. What year/models and engine size can I pull from for a direct bolt-in?

Thanks.
 
I got really lucky but found a replacement for 150 bucks. M50d watch craigslist, btu also smaller local classifieds. Junkyard charge around 250 i believe.
 
I'm leaning towards swapping in the M5OD. What year/models and engine size can I pull from for a direct bolt-in?

Thanks.

M5OD was available on the 2.9 and 4.0 from about 91 up into the 2000's in both Rangers and Explorers.

Either the 2.9 or 4.0 version will work for you, but 4.0s are much more common. If you get one from a vehicle with a 4.0 SOHC you will end up with an empty bolt hole about 2:00 on the trans, but it isn't a problem.

You might also need a different drive shaft. If you already have the straight-stick your current shaft will be fine, but if you have the curved one, you need a shorter shaft.

You will also need to match your current drive train (2wd or 4wd) or the back of the trans won't be quite right.

If you have a 4x4, try to get a trans and t-case together, it just makes it easier (unless you have electronic 4x4, then don't worry about the t-case).
 
Indeed I have electronic push-button 4x4.

What do you mean by straight-stick or curved-stick?

Would it add too much trouble if I swapped my 2.9L engine to a 4.0L engine, too? Over the summer, time is one thing I have plenty of. I suppose if I find a good donor I might do that too.

So I will begin looking for a 91-2000 Ranger or Explorer with 4x4 as a donor. Maybe a trip to the j/y this week.

Thanks.
 

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