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Transmission removal


trademarked67

New Member
Joined
Mar 16, 2008
Messages
4
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Manual
Working on removing the transmission from 94 Ranger, 2.3L manual 5 speed 2wd to replace the clutch and slave cylinder. The truck has 195k miles and this is the first time for these parts to be replaced. Problem I am having is all the frozen bolts. On the transmission to engine bolts, at least 3 I can't loosen - the one above the starter and the two above. And is there only 6 bolts on this connection, or is there another I can't see above the oil filter? I am having a difficult time getting leverage on these bolts and there is little room.

Also, all four bolts on the rear flange of the drive shaft are frozen. I haven't tried to loosen the cross member bolts, but they look worse than the others.

I know a number of you have done this a multiple times. Any suggestions/secrets on trying to remove? I have been spraying with WD40.

Thanks
 
Spray some PB blaster on the bolts and let them sit overnight. You will need leverage to get the bolts loose.

If they are original they probably have threadlocker on them which you will have to break loose. Heating them may help, but be careful with the torch.
 
Hey, im not sure about the 94s.. but i just did my 92 yesterday and that pb stuff works wonders.. i didnt leave it over night though.. you just need alot of fancy attachments for your ratchet.. Mine had 8 bolts holding tranny to engine, it was a long process to find that out.. i never did get the crossmember bolts out.. they were hydro locked in the bushings, i ended up removing my seats and the entire top of transmission plate from in the cab.
 
for breaking bolts loose, i rarely even try doing it by hand any more. I have a 2lb brass sledge that i smack the end of the wrench with.


there were some bolts that i had to use a breaker bar, with a piece of wire going up to the wrench to pull on it, that i used and pried against the tranny or frame rail. It was the equivilent to using a 3 foot breaker bar right on the wrench.

The most difficult part about the bolts is dealing with the ones that gall up the threads in the aluminum.
 
What I hate is when your cranking like heck on a bolt and it pops loose and causes the ratchet to change directions.
 
My '93 was the same. I laid across the engine, held a short 13mm box end on the top bolts with my left fingers and tapped the wrench with a 5lb sledge!
PITA but it worked.
 
Good luck with it..they can sometimes be a real pain. On my 2.9, I only undo the top 2 from above the motor, the rest I get from underneath with a U-joint below the 13mm socket and a 10" + 12" extension, and a piece of pipe, about a foot and a half,(or sometimes my hydraulic jack handle) slid over the breaker bar handle. Patience and perseverance..you'll get it..
 
Be sure to use good tools tho...I broke 2 sockets and twisted the ends off 3 extensions getting my Ranger apart the first time..hate to have to go buy tools in the middle of the job.
 
WD40 is good for things like locks and stuff-but it's NOT a very good penetrant-get some PB Blaster or some stuff named Kroil-both are very good.If you can get your driveshaft removed,take out your trans mount at the crossmember and jack up the end of your trans-it should give you a little better access to the 2 bolts at the top of your bellhousing.
 

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