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Transmission Flush Problem


B'Ham Mazda Truck

New Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2013
Messages
2
Vehicle Year
2002
Transmission
Automatic
We have a 2002 B-Series truck and recently got the transmission fluid changed at our oil change place. They used some kind of pump to force out the fluid in order to change more of the fluid compared to just draining it normally. Since then, the truck won't shift into gear if it's cold or on a hill. It just slips, as if there isn't enough fluid pressure. They checked the fluid levels, which are all fine, but it still won't go into gear without a long hesitation. Any ideas?
 
Tell them to break out the checkbook. If it was working fine before they did the flush? Then something went wrong during the process.

In all reality? Most likely they back flushed it and the filter is bunged up with crud.

S-
 
We tried that. They said they didn't know what it could be, and they could only check the fluid levels. Usually honest, good people. Not a Jiffy Lube or anything.
 
The trans. going out after a flush is not that uncommon it happens. When I do flushes I tell the customers that there is a chance that it will go out after the flush.
Regular fluid is every 30,000 miles and synthetic is every 50,000 miles.
Eric the car guy has a video on this the old fluid has worn the seals and the new fluid is leaking past them causing loss of fluid pressure.
 
My Buddy owns a transmission shop, and does not even own the equipment to do a "power flush". You are asking for trouble when you apply higher pressure than the trans is used to having. Like the previous post said, it is very common to receive adverse affects when power flushing a trans. You are much better off just changing the fluid and filter.
 
When I run flushes I am very careful to not use the booster pump except on a select few transmissions that produce little to no flow in Park or Neutral (Some versions of the 4R70W for example).

Brokemechanic is right to a point. It is possible for the seals to get used to crappy fluid and respond poorly to fresh stuff. The part that he left out is that when that happens it is usually a sign that the transmission would not have lasted too much longer anyway.
 
When I run flushes I am very careful to not use the booster pump except on a select few transmissions that produce little to no flow in Park or Neutral (Some versions of the 4R70W for example).

And this is stuff that the Jiffy Lube has no clue about.

Part of why my Buddy no longer power flushes is also due to being blamed for ruining transmissions, and trying to gain business. Which is not the case at all - he is the most honest people I know. Generally, individuals (at least around here) don't think to change their trans fluid until it flares, slams, or slips. By then, the damage is probably done.
 
Tell them to break out the checkbook. If it was working fine before they did the flush? Then something went wrong during the process.

In all reality? Most likely they back flushed it and the filter is bunged up with crud.

S-

It is really hard to "backflush" a transmission. You would have to fill it completely full and then force fluid to go through it backwards. It wouldn't work very well, especially when it is running and trying to pump it the other way.

Most flushes use the transmissions pump, they unhook a cooler line and as the transmission pumps fluid out it lets new fluid is let in.

What is a problem is a neglected or worn transmission can depend on the clutch fibers floating around in the transmission fluid to get traction. Change the fluid and you have a slip-o-matic because there is no clutch fibers to help it along. Then things depend on heat to swell and grab before eventually there is nothing.

Generally if a trans dies after a flush its days were numbered anyway, only now the car owner has someone to "blame."
 
Generally, individuals (at least around here) don't think to change their trans fluid until it flares, slams, or slips. By then, the damage is probably done.

Same here. That has to be one of the worst things about being a dealership tech in PA. Pennsylvanians are neurotic to a fault about the appearance of their cars, but most of them don't want to spend a dime on maintence. I can sell transmission flushes by the butt-load when the fluid is black and nasty and the trans isn't shifting right and tell them "Well, this may or may not fix it, but it's a lot cheaper than tearing it apart and looking inside." and they still want us to pay for a new trans when that doesn't fix it.

But if I recommend it at the scheduled mileage, where Ford says to do it, they say "No, that's too expensive".

We charge about $175 for a trans flush, which we recommend every 30,000 miles. That's $175 every 30,000 miles.

Oil change here is $24.95 for 5 quarts. If you engine only takes 5 quarts that's $149.70 in 30,000 miles. Not a lot of difference there.

I guess I am just mystified by how $700 in 120,000 miles is "too expensive" but most of them are ok with up to $6000 + labor to replace the trans at 90 when something breaks because they didn't do the basic fluid changes and aren't ready/can't afford to get rid of the car.
 
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We charge about $175 for a trans flush, which we recommend every 30,000 miles. That's $175 every 30,000 miles.

My friend's shop is $89.95 plus tax, and people still bitch about that being too high.

Out of curiosity, do you get many of Ford's CVT's back in? He hasn't had a Ford CVT yet, but several Saturn's. He's had a damn Audi in and out of his shop several times now - and the dealer can't even figure out what's wrong. They have had 2 new ECU's put in, and it won't hold the program for more than a week or so. The service manager told my Buddy: "tell them to go trade it in, but not here". There are actually quite a few shops around here that refuse to work on CVT's.
 
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You guys are scaring me with this stuff. My mom have an 04 e350 that I keep telling her to get the fluid changed, it has 92k miles and its never been changed, now I'm affraid of will break something lol, it has a very lite shutter when going into over drive after long periods of use but other thanbthat which doesn't happen very often, it shifts great. You think a fluid and filter change would do more harm than good?

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 2
 
You guys are scaring me with this stuff. My mom have an 04 e350 that I keep telling her to get the fluid changed, it has 92k miles and its never been changed, now I'm affraid of will break something lol, it has a very lite shutter when going into over drive after long periods of use but other thanbthat which doesn't happen very often, it shifts great. You think a fluid and filter change would do more harm than good?

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 2

What does the fluid look like?
 
Out of curiosity, do you get many of Ford's CVT's back in? He hasn't had a Ford CVT yet, but several Saturn's. He's had a damn Audi in and out of his shop several times now - and the dealer can't even figure out what's wrong. They have had 2 new ECU's put in, and it won't hold the program for more than a week or so. The service manager told my Buddy: "tell them to go trade it in, but not here". There are actually quite a few shops around here that refuse to work on CVT's.

We see them every now and then, not usually for trans problems.


You guys are scaring me with this stuff. My mom have an 04 e350 that I keep telling her to get the fluid changed, it has 92k miles and its never been changed, now I'm affraid of will break something lol, it has a very lite shutter when going into over drive after long periods of use but other thanbthat which doesn't happen very often, it shifts great. You think a fluid and filter change would do more harm than good?

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 2

Nah, that's just torque converter shudder. Get it flushed out with good stuff like BG. The most common cause is the clutch getting stuck a hair and then applying harshly when it breaks loose.
 
What does the fluid look like?

Slightly dull pinkish color. The black stuff is from the dipstick.


20130621_230316_zpse121a995.jpg





We see them every now and then, not usually for trans problems.




Nah, that's just torque converter shudder. Get it flushed out with good stuff like BG. The most common cause is the clutch getting stuck a hair and then applying harshly when it breaks loose.

Cool, thanks. What's bg?

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 2
 
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I have been lucky with my ATs, The Getrag 4 HP22 just needs fluid and filter every so often. The 727s in the Waggys are pretty rugged too. 30-50 K mile changes with a filter.
 

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