91 4.0L 4x4
Member
1991 Ranger XLT 4.0L 4x4 5 spd. Manual
Scenario:
- Pulled electric shift motor for benchtop rebuild (bump stop replace).
- Tested motor both directions, reinstalled.
- Successful shift into 4H & back to 2H. Then successfully 2H to 4H to 4L.
- While attempting disengage from 4L to 4H, shift motor stops working.
- Removed shift motor, manually returned to 2H. Triangular indicator nib on T-case is at 2H, but front driveline will not disengage. Pulled auto-hubs, put them right back on (wheels spin freely both directions = hubs disengaged) and reversed for 20+ ft, of course. Front driveline stays engaged and forward motion starts hub engagement keeping me in 4WD.
Questions:
- Must the electric shift motor be in place in order for the T-case to return to 2H (electrical continuity, speed sensor)?
- How common is it for the problem to be the position selector (triangular nib) on the T-case? Its action feels correct, O-ring seems fine.
Notes:
- Long ago I detached what I believe they call the neutral safety switch (so I can start without foot on clutch) any chance this matters?
- Jerks violently with slight turns on dry road (told thats "normal").
- Unlike in the past, right auto-hub allowed big splined stub and ring to slide out into my hand while pieces in left hub were retained, but i dont care much because...
- I'm converting to manual Warn "jeep" hubs but first things first, I need to return to 2H.
Gimme 2H so I can drive, solve my shift motor and convert to manual hubs!
If you have any advice PLEASE respond today!
Thanks much!
Scenario:
- Pulled electric shift motor for benchtop rebuild (bump stop replace).
- Tested motor both directions, reinstalled.
- Successful shift into 4H & back to 2H. Then successfully 2H to 4H to 4L.
- While attempting disengage from 4L to 4H, shift motor stops working.
- Removed shift motor, manually returned to 2H. Triangular indicator nib on T-case is at 2H, but front driveline will not disengage. Pulled auto-hubs, put them right back on (wheels spin freely both directions = hubs disengaged) and reversed for 20+ ft, of course. Front driveline stays engaged and forward motion starts hub engagement keeping me in 4WD.
Questions:
- Must the electric shift motor be in place in order for the T-case to return to 2H (electrical continuity, speed sensor)?
- How common is it for the problem to be the position selector (triangular nib) on the T-case? Its action feels correct, O-ring seems fine.
Notes:
- Long ago I detached what I believe they call the neutral safety switch (so I can start without foot on clutch) any chance this matters?
- Jerks violently with slight turns on dry road (told thats "normal").
- Unlike in the past, right auto-hub allowed big splined stub and ring to slide out into my hand while pieces in left hub were retained, but i dont care much because...
- I'm converting to manual Warn "jeep" hubs but first things first, I need to return to 2H.
Gimme 2H so I can drive, solve my shift motor and convert to manual hubs!
If you have any advice PLEASE respond today!
Thanks much!