Transfer case 2H but driveline won't disengage

[91 4.0L 4x4]

1991 Ranger XLT 4.0L 4x4 5 spd. Manual

Scenario:

- Pulled electric shift motor for benchtop rebuild (bump stop replace).
- Tested motor both directions, reinstalled.
- Successful shift into 4H & back to 2H. Then successfully 2H to 4H to 4L.
- While attempting disengage from 4L to 4H, shift motor stops working.
- Removed shift motor, manually returned to 2H. Triangular indicator nib on T-case is at 2H, but front driveline will not disengage. Pulled auto-hubs, put them right back on (wheels spin freely both directions = hubs disengaged) and reversed for 20+ ft, of course. Front driveline stays engaged and forward motion starts hub engagement keeping me in 4WD.

Questions:

- Must the electric shift motor be in place in order for the T-case to return to 2H (electrical continuity, speed sensor)?
- How common is it for the problem to be the position selector (triangular nib) on the T-case? Its action feels correct, O-ring seems fine.

Notes:

- Long ago I detached what I believe they call the neutral safety switch (so I can start without foot on clutch) any chance this matters?

- Jerks violently with slight turns on dry road (told thats "normal").

- Unlike in the past, right auto-hub allowed big splined stub and ring to slide out into my hand while pieces in left hub were retained, but i dont care much because...
- I'm converting to manual Warn "jeep" hubs but first things first, I need to return to 2H.

Gimme 2H so I can drive, solve my shift motor and convert to manual hubs!
If you have any advice PLEASE respond today!

Thanks much!

 

[Kirk88STX]

Don't know if this helps man but mine was stuck in 4Hi last week.
I took the motor off the back of the t-case and made the mistake of turning the shaft all the way to the left, thought it was in 2wd, test drive and truck was still in 4Hi. Turned it all the way clockwise, backed up and it was back in 2wd. Simple mistake.
Cleaning the old motor but got a used one that works fine.

 

[adsm08]

Well, the transfer case won't shift unless the motor is attached. Not sure if that's the question you were asking with the motor "being in place".

Your bypass of the clutch switch shouldn't be affecting things.

4x4 should not be used on dry hard surfaces and so a skipping during turns would be as normal as that incorrect usage would allow for.

 

[91 4.0L 4x4]

Half-ass solution to disengage problem

Thanks adsm08.

Yeah, hard dry pavement is not what 4WD wants, for sure.

The shift motor's sole job seems to be turning the triangular "nib" or selector on the back of the transfer case. If you remove the electric shift motor you can still shift the transfer case position by carefully gripping the nib and rotating it to the positions marked on the transfer case (a 9mm socket on a 1/4" driver works better than pliers).
I'm told this is simply a mechanical process, and not dependent on any electrical connection. If this is true, then technically speaking, one could go through life without the shift motor, getting out of and under the truck and "hand selecting" each and every time one needed 2h, 4H or 4L. So the electric shift motor is simply a convenience piece and NOT truly required for T-case function.
My goal was to repair the rubber bump stop in the shift motor and replace the auto-hubs with Warn's P/N 37780 "Jeep" manual locking hubs which are stronger than Warn's P/N 29071 "Ford" manual locking hubs. Both of these are remarkably easy jobs.
My problem is that after my rebuild of the shift motor it still has resistance slowing it (assembly tightness?) and worse, my T-case doesn't seem to recognize the 2H position. I guess my issue is now with the T-case innards.

Sooo...I pulled the front driveshaft out so I could drive the truck. The yoke spins at the transmission, but no more front axle engagement.

I wonder: Since the T-case is still in 4H, am I in a reduced gear in the back?
Whats the most common problem with this Transfer case?

Thanks to all who chimed in on this, "we're all in this together".

 

[adsm08]

4 hi and 2 hi have the same ratio. The t-case motor function is, as you suspect, only to turn that nib. There is a product called the Shiftster that lets you do it by hand easier.

The motor should also move when not connected. If it moves freely when not on the case, you likely have an internal issue. Probably the shift cam is getting stuck.

Rather than pull your case apart, I'd go looking for a manual one.