Trans help..

[NJ 03Mach1]

Background; 1994, 4cyl, 5spd, 150k on the clock, maintained, not abused. Commuter truck no other mechanical issues. Recently noticed the clutch reservoir was a bit low while checking fluids and topped it off. I check all fluids every Thursday and top them off. This is a first since I've owned it (10k miles or so) that the clutch fluid was low. Trans fluid is checked with each oil change. (3k/3500)


Was cruising to work this morning at about 60/65mph, without warning not even a hint, the rear wheels locked up and the truck stalled With my halfway decent reflexes/Car control and thought process, I managed to stab the clutch and regain control of the truck before it caused a news worthy pile up on NJ I287 in bumper to bumper commuter traffic..

Once on the side of the road, I start going over what happened and figuring out WTF went wrong. I step on the clutch, turn the key and it fires right up. Place it in first and let the clutch out and the truck starts moving.. I get up to about 10mph and sure enough the wheels lock up. At that point, the truck would still roll with the clutch held in.

I get it on a trailer, get it home and go to roll it into the garage and even with the clutch pressed and trans shifter in neutral it will not roll. It starts and runs perfectly but once I let the clutch out, it stalls even though the shifter is in neutral.

Any ideas on what it could be? Trans? Clutch failure?

I know it's hard to figure out an issue over the internet, but I'm looking to see if I can get an idea on just getting rid of it (tax donation), or fixing it. Truck runs great, looks decent and serves it's purpose, but I won't dump big $ into a truck I paid $300 for.

 

[Duane867]

I think its the rear end....

 

[modelageek]

I think its the rear end....

it could be the rearend.....you said the clutch fluid might be leaking...........disconnect the driveshaft and jack the rear end up.......see what is stuck.......

 

[NJ 03Mach1]

Why would it still stall in Neutral though? Literally as soon as I let the clutch out, in Neutral it stalls.

 

[Earl43P]

Can't be the rear end if it runs/rolls with the clutch depressed.

Bad transmission.

Pushing the clutch in disconnects input from the engine, so engine runs with clutch depressed, cause the engine is disconnected. I'd guess the input shaft/ its bearing are shot.

You can find a trans easily enough in your area, I'm guessing in the $300 rang,e plus a new clutch and slave takes it well over $500, just in parts unless yours is still "good enough". You KNOW you need a new slave cylinder, it's leaking from the sound of it.

It sounds worth fixing if you can do the labor.
Still cost less that 2 car payments, not to mention buying a replacement vehicle.

 

[Bryan22]

I've never personally seen a manual trans in a ranger fail, so don't let that shy you away from the truck. I'm with Earl, get another trans in there and run it. No way you'll find a decent car for less than it'll cost you to get the ranger back on the road.

How'd you get it for $300 anyways? previous owner must've know something was wrong with it. Too bad you're not in cali. I've got a spare m5od sitting in my yard.

 

[NJ 03Mach1]

I've never personally seen a manual trans in a ranger fail, so don't let that shy you away from the truck. I'm with Earl, get another trans in there and run it. No way you'll find a decent car for less than it'll cost you to get the ranger back on the road.

How'd you get it for $300 anyways? previous owner must've know something was wrong with it. Too bad you're not in cali. I've got a spare m5od sitting in my yard.

It was from a friend. The spring perch had failed and he didn't want to spend the $ to fix it. I fixed it myself and saved the loot.

There is now a "new" symptom lol..

I needed to move it deeper into the garage somehow so figured, why not just try and "force it", so I revved the shit out of it and dumped the clutch. So now, it'll stay running when I release the clutch and it makes a kind of chopping sound (really the only way to describe it) when idling..

I guess I'll drop the trans, and see what's what.. I'm going to attempt it in my garage, are there any things I should need to know to get this thing out? I'm no super mechanic but I've yanked more T5's out of Mustangs then I care to count while lying on my back... I guess I'll get it as high in the air as I can and go from there..

I have never yanked anything with a slave cylinder... any tips or tricks?

 

[Earl43P]

Slave disconnect tool $8
Spline alignment tool $3

Put all 4 wheels up on cinderblocks (set on top of wood) and chock the tires with 2x4 stuck in cinder block holes. Perfect height.

13mm for the tranny bolts, lots of extensions
12 pt 12mm with breaker bar for the drive shaft bolts, heat them to loosen Loctite.

Get the trans tail down lower to get the top bellhousing bolts by unbolting the crossmember still attached to trans, get wife/friend to stand on it / or block of wood to prop it.

 

[NJ 03Mach1]

Thanks..

 

[Bryan22]

if you don't have the tool for the slave you just have to push the white sleeve in with a screwdriver or something. sometimes the line is really a pain to get disconnected and sometimes it slips right out.

The two top bolts are a pain to get to. if you have some of the 'z' shaped wreches they work best, or guy buy a cheap set of wrenches so you can bend one to suite.

While you're changing the trans might a well do the clutch. a clutch kit usually comes with the alignment tool so you're covered there.

If you decide the clutch is fine to run, please save your self a royal headache by at least changing the slave cylinder! it's a peice of cake while the trans is out and they are very prone to failure.

 

[Duane867]

The easiest way to do the slave cylinder if the line gives you any shit is to do the master at the same time. That way you can cut those bastages right off.