Trans flush?

[gungfudan]

Is there any way to do a transmission flush yourself?

 

[Rose2300]

with the right equipment

 

[nutpantz]

Safely?
I pull the line of my rad and hook a hose up to it and run the engine until it drains..then quickly turn of the engine.pull the pan change the filter button it all up and refill.

But safe?
Think you need to go to a lube change place for safe..
Then pay for a filter change and top up. (I have found most garages don't have a flush machine and most lube places don't change the filter)

 

[shane96ranger]

Here's an interesting how-to on Thunderbird and Cougar Clubs page below. I am going to talk to my buddy about how safe this is though. I have a feeling he's going to tell me it's not a good idea to run the pump and converter dry. (Obviously some of this doesn't apply to your Ranger)

First, remove the UPPER radiator transmission line. You will need to install a new fitting (unless you have an auxilary transmission cooler) with a flared tubing end (available at Pep Boys). Then attach a 5-foot long 3/8" ID hose to the upper radiator fitting. DO NOT attach the hose to the metal transmission line. Secure the hose with an adjustable clamp.

Run the hose to a 15-qt. capacity pan on the ground. Then start the engine and allow the ATF to pump into the pan. You may slightly rev the engine to activate the pump at a higher capacity (do not exceed 1,200 rpm). It will take about 5 minutes to drain the transmission. Once the flow rate decreases or the ATF spits, quickly stop the engine.

Re-install the transmission line into the upper radiator fitting (return to the stock set-up). Now is an excellent time to install an auxiliary transmission cooler. Safely secure the vehicle on jack stands and move the 15-qt. capacity pan to under the torque converter.

Remove the rubber bell housing seal with a screwdriver. In order to drain the TC, you must align the drain plug with the hole in the bell housing. Crank (BUT DO NOT START) the engine until the plug is aligned. Two people make this task easier. Remove the drain plug and allow the TC to drain. It will take about 30 minutes to completely drain.

Finally, remove the 14, 10mm transmission pan bolts and lower the pan down. Notice, little or no ATF is in the pan. Drop the filter into the pan and discard. Clean the pan out, as well as the magnet using brake cleaner spray. Re-use the original pan gasket provided it isn't ripped or damaged.

Re-install the pan in reverse order and torque the bolts to 120 in.-lbs. Be sure to re-install the TC drain plug and bell housing seal. You should consider upgrading the main controls (valve body) as shown in Jerry's thesis/novel. Verify the 1-2 Accumulator piston is the new updated version (rubber molded) and not the aluminum one. Replace it with part number F7AZ-7F251-AA). The 2-3 Accumulator piston should also be checked and upgraded to the new rubber style, part number F7AZ-7H292-AA. My report will be available very soon, detailing (step-by-step), how to install these parts.

Re-fill the transmission and torque converter through the dip stick tube. Add 6 quarts of MERCON-V ATF (XT-5-QM) and then start the vehicle. Move the shifter slowly through the gear positions (don't worry if the transmission does not engage each gear). Stop the engine and add 4 more quarts of MERCON-V. Run the shifter through the gears again. Add the last two quarts of ATF slowly and check the dip stick marks. The holding capacity for the torque converter and transmission together is 12 quarts (13 with an auxilary cooler).

http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny/flushing.html

 

[adsm08]

If you have the trans good and hot and stick one cooler line in an empty container and one in a full container of new fluid it should "flush" it.

The trans is a closed system and the filter does not need to be changed as a regular maintenance item because most of the dirt in the trans stays suspended in the fluid or deposits on the magnet. By the time the filter needs replaced from contamination the trans needs overhauled anyway.


Now, there is a method called a "triple flush" that can be used on these transmissions. You drop and drain the pan, refill with fresh fluid, run for 10 to 15 minutes, drop and drain the pan, refill, run for 10 to 15 minutes, drop and drain the pan, replace the filter and gasket, and then drain the converter if it has a drain, and refill the trans again. It is fairly similar to what a dipstick tube exchanger will do.

 

[shane96ranger]

If you have the trans good and hot and stick one cooler line in an empty container and one in a full container of new fluid it should "flush" it.

This sounds perfectly safe to me.

The trans is a closed system and the filter does not need to be changed as a regular maintenance item because most of the dirt in the trans stays suspended in the fluid or deposits on the magnet. By the time the filter needs replaced from contamination the trans needs overhauled anyway.

Ford/Mazda thinks you only need to replace it with a rebuild on the CD4E.

 

[adsm08]

Ford/Mazda thinks you only need to replace it with a rebuild on the CD4E.

Which is roughly why the CD4E filter can't be accessed with the trans in the vehicle.

In fact most of the new transmissions Ford has put into service in the last 5 years don't even have filters in them anymore for roughly the same reasons I keep saying they don't have to be replaced except when you overhaul.

 

[gungfudan]

I did not state this to begin with but this is on a Jeep grand cherokee. Is that going to make a difference on the flush. sorry about not mentioning that before was not thinking about it.