Tranny swap

[noyb72]

I have an 87 Ranger 2.9/FM-146. I want to put the FM-146 into my 84 BII that currently has a C-5. I think the biggest deal will be the D-shafts. I think the front of the Ranger should fit the BII, but will I need to do anything to the rear? I am planning on using the Ranger cross-member and padel assembly etc..

Any tips or pitfalls someone may have experienced would be very helpful. I know M5OD is the preferred tranny but the price was right on this truck (FREE!)

Also, I'll be parting the Ranger out. Anyone who needs gen-1 parts on the Olympic Peninsula, feel free to ask.

Ron

 

[dogboy]

As far as I know, you "should" retime your motor after doing the swap becuase the timing is different between the manuals and autos.

The front shaft from the Ranger should work, yes, and the rear will have to change. I'm not positive if it needs to be lenghtened, or shortened, maybe somebody else can answer that.

I don't think the pedal assembly's are different, but they may be. If nothing else, you may be able to get away with just swaping the manual pedals only onto your auto pedal bracket. (if that makes sense)

 

[mjonesjr]

As far as I know, you "should" retime your motor after doing the swap becuase the timing is different between the manuals and autos.

It isn't much to worry about. I didn't change anything on the timing in my '86 BII after the manual swap; heck, I am even running the auto PCM and getting about 16-17 mpg.

The front shaft from the Ranger should work, yes, and the rear will have to change. I'm not positive if it needs to be lenghtened, or shortened, maybe somebody else can answer that.

It would be easier to get a correct front drive shaft. They are a dime a dozen.

I don't think the pedal assembly's are different, but they may be. If nothing else, you may be able to get away with just swaping the manual pedals only onto your auto pedal bracket. (if that makes sense)

The auto brake pedal assembly is completely different from a manual brake pedal assembly. The swap is easy and can be done in less than 1 hour.





I need some door lock rods if your truck has power door locks.

 

[noyb72]

Thanks for the help, it doesn't sound like it will be to hard. Both trucks have manual locks and windows. I'm keeping the doors off the Ranger since they don't have windwings. The BII doors will become half doors. I'm putting the front bench from the Ranger in, the BII and Extra cab are the same, and I'll probably keep the BII dash because it's already opened up to double DIN for the GPS. This truck WILL be chopped someday, so I'll probably cut up the Ranger bed as donor rails. Doesn't sound like much is left, but the rest of the running gear is there. and the interior and cab less front seat and doors.

I haven't had a chance to look, does anyone know if I am going to have to change the Dshaft drom flange to yoke or vice-versa?

Thanks again for the help.

Ron

 

[mjonesjr]

It all depends on what transfer case you have. Some BW1350's had a yoke output rear and some had a flange. If you have your stock drive shaft shortened, then you wont have to change anything as long as you use the same transfer case.

 

[noyb72]

Cool,
I was hoping I wouldn't need to shorten the shaft, but was pretty certain I would have to. Beings how I DO have to mod the shaft, which is stronger, flange or yoke? Are there any upgraded joints available? I've thrown a joint on the front shaft before. That SUCKS.

Oh ya, the 2.8 is toast. I'm putting in a long block, so I'll be retiming it then.

Thanks

Ron

 

[mjonesjr]

It is all a personal preference. The flanges are strong for your application IMO.