tranny/overheat problem

[alaskan155]

i have a 67 289 backed by a 90 aod
has a explorer hd radiatior(new from ebay) and a ford taurus 3.8 electric fan between the radiator and grill wired in reverse to push air into the radiator

the problem after 20mins (maybe 15 or so) the engine overheats causing the radiator coolant to boil over, .

possible am i overheating the radiator by having the tranny directly connected to it? thermostat seems good as there is water in the upper hose

also no matter where the gear selector is d, od 2,1 is seems to be stuck in first (been sitting for a couple years)

then the idle is just over 1k rpm in nuetral and park, so is there any way to bring that down, ive turned the adjuster on the front of the car 1.5 turns in on both sides which helped the throttle smooth out(would die when you pressed the gas, or try to before) and the idle adjustment screww is max(wont back of any further)

this is with a 2150 carb with 1.21 jets, and duraspark distributor.

if any one want to help me out that would be cool not in a hurry but i would like to drive this before summer ends

also there is no exhuast right now just open manifolds

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I would guess you need to turn the fan around the impeller is made to blow in one direction and if you can get a schroud to force the air through all of the passages.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Does the tranny have the vacuum modulator on the passenger side of the housing it needs to be hooked up to manifold vacuum it kinna looks like a choke pull off for a carb. For adjusting the carbturn them out for the highest idle or vacuum the in until the idle speed just starts to drop then check them by counting the turns in and then back out they should be within 1/2 a turn. Their should be a idle adjusting screw on the throttle lever side of the carb that holds the butterfly open. Does it have the automatic choke and do you know what size jets are in the carb. can you give us pics of the carb or email the pics to me at kimcrwbr1@aol.com

 

[alaskan155]

its a motorcraft 2150 carb and has an electric choke with a heated line(niether of which is hooked up. the carb has the 1.21 jets and 2bbl. the tranny only has a tv cable which i have set to open 1 to 1 with the gast pedalwhen the peddle is fully puhed the tv cable is fully pulled it an 1990 aod from a bronco.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Is the vacuum for the choke plugged off it is the fitting on the choke housing at a 45 degree angle. The 1.21 is the venturi size the jets are in the bottom of the float bowl. I just checked autozone there is a modulator on the tranny on the passenger side that needs to be hooked up to manifold vacuum for it to shift properly they can be hard to see but that sounds like your shifting problem. Look it up and see what it looks like I will see if I can get a pic for you.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

This one is adjustable yours should look similar without the knob.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vacuum-Adjustab...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c0c54837f sorry forgot the link

 

[Psychopete]

What are the conditions you are driving in, and is it a gradual overheating, or is it fine then spike?

Is your fan running and it doesn't seem like it's cooling?

Engine you built, or is it as is? Trans fluid getting hotter than hell?

Gather as much info as you can about what's happening, what it's supposed to be doing, etc and that should help narrow down what the problem could be. May take some trial and error since everything is custom.. First thing I would check is the trans pressure, the TV adjustment is pretty sensitive, but then again you may not be able to check it easily if it's something you put together. I used a Lokar AOD TV cable for a carb, it includes a different TV lever for the trans and a piece of metal 5/16" (I think, maybe 3/8" can't remember) thick to pull on the cable to make sure the pressure looks good.

I've been running an ex 2 row w/ AOD plumbed to it, with a flex fan and full 4.0L shroud. Haven't been over 190 with a 180 stat so far, and we've seen 90s a couple days and have been pretty humid. Did good on a 40+ minute drive with an engine, trans, engine crane in the back doing 65mph in 3rd the whole way. I also mostly do city driving so I am idling quite a bit.

 

[fordmike1]

there is a modulator on the tranny on the passenger side that needs to be hooked up to manifold vacuum for it to shift

Sorry the Ford AOD doesnt use any vacuum on the trans. The trans is controled by a TV cable.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6L3hNzxdiYw Sorry was mistaken I found this hope it helps someone.

 

[alaskan155]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6L3hNzxdiYw Sorry was mistaken I found this hope it helps someone.

that's how i adjusted it, i modified an f150 tv cable and ran it to the gas pedal like the original A4LD.

think im going to see if i can flip the blades on my turuas fan Wednesday, and move it more towards the center of the radiator(might help maybe) and remove the thermostat and test it again., if it stay cool then i know it was the thernostat(only think i didnt replace on the 289 when i did the gaskets

as for the engine its a stock 67 289 bored .40 over 2bbl with a mc2150 carb w/1.21 venturi(originated from a 351) and a duraspark II setup.all the gaskets been replaced from top to bottom before i installed it.

the vacumn is the only think hooked up to the carb for the choke, is still need a hard line run from the PS exhaust manifold and i believe a 12v hookup to be fully operational,

beside the high idle she will fire right up once fuel reaches the carb and start within the first second when warm, haven't ran an exhaust yet, so its open manifold(could that cause any problems) and it was about 75 degrees out when i ran it. all the vacuum ports are pluged, got the dizzy runing to the vacumn port on the ps bottom of the carb and the brakes hooked up to the manifold vacuum, the heater vacumn is the only thing i need to hook up but i need the get a heater box to replace the a/c box so it dosen't really matter right now.

here a video of it running about 15mins before it overheated.
http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1469829170&v=app_2392950137#!/video/video.php?v=1485131896162

 

[kimcrwbr1]

You dont have to hook the heater tube up on the carb just cap it and put a electric choke thermostat and run it from the ignition on circuit and plug the fitting for the tube with a cap off a/c system to plug the vacuum leak there. you will need to get the exhaust system put in to final the tune up dont run it too long open headers you chance burning valves or pistons. and you said your running the dizzy advance from ported vacuum on the carb you can use manifold vacuum also. Get the base timing set turn the idle adjust screws out for the highest rpm and from pony carbs I was reading those engines run best with the advance as far as you can get without pinging so advance it until it pings under a load then back off to just at the point where it almost pings will help for the cooling thing also.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Oh yea you didnt mention a pcv valve you can tee it iff the brake booster if you dont have a nipple on the base of the carb and change it every time you do plugs cap and rotor mostly for the engine keeps the upper end clean.