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Trailer jack question?


rusty ol ranger

2.9 Mafia-Don
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Sep 22, 2007
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Michigan
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1987
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I need a new tounge jack for my equipment trailer.

18ft long, 2500lb empty, and 10k GVW.

My question is....when considering capacity for the jack i only need to consider tounge weight correct? Id like to run an electric one and it seems all i find are 3500lb ones. So even if i got it fully loaded i should be good with that right? Since 3500tounge would be stupidly front heavy?
 
It’s rated as lift capacity. So max tongue weight + whatever else.
There’s a chance you’ll have to lift the trailer up some while still attached to the truck, so take that into account. I would go with double the max tongue weight if I were buying one.
 
Me being me... I don't really unhook the trailer without unloading it first. It has to be on the truck to unload... it just kinda works it is empty when I take it off the truck.

Unless it is light like brush or hay bales... but yeah there isn't much weight there.
 
Me being me... I don't really unhook the trailer without unloading it first. It has to be on the truck to unload... it just kinda works it is empty when I take it off the truck.

Unless it is light like brush or hay bales... but yeah there isn't much weight there.
I rarely set it down with a big load either. Usually just a couple quads. Except when i got the sides on and its wood season, but the jack on it was such garbage id usually lift it with my hi-lift when it had wood on it.

I found a heavy duty square style one (kinda looks like a mini verson of half a semi landing gear) thats rated for a 7000lb static load. Its crank but it comes with an adaptor to run it up and down with a cordless drill.

I might go that route and save myself some wiring.
 
I don’t like unloading or loading a trailer that isn’t hooked to a truck unless it’s light stuff. I’ve seen too many times that it’s gone horribly wrong. Semi trailers are an exception because they’re designed for it.

That said, I still prefer a heavier duty jack than what I expect to need. I bought a 7k drop leg for my enclosed jobsite trailer build that I haven’t got to yet. That trailer is also going to get stabilizer jacks on the corners among other things.
 
I've always gone heavier that what the trailer should have for a tongue weight. I think I one I have on the 4X8 is 1,200# and double wheeled so it is less likely to sink into the dirt.
 
I put swivel jacks on the back corners of my flatdecks. My 18' has 2 jacks each front corner like rusty is looking at. Except no drill option. I can jack up the trailer so there is no weight on the axles. Has come in handy a couple times.
 
I put swivel jacks on the back corners of my flatdecks. My 18' has 2 jacks each front corner like rusty is looking at. Except no drill option. I can jack up the trailer so there is no weight on the axles. Has come in handy a couple times.
My trailer has drop down ramps on the back with big heavy "stands" that come down on the bottom of them up front toward the trailer. They keep the trailer nose from "lifting" during loading/unloading.

They also make it a pain in the ass at times if youre trying to drop the ramps on unlevel ground. Theres been times they dig the ground so hard i couldnt force them down and had to back the truck up.
 
My trailer has drop down ramps on the back with big heavy "stands" that come down on the bottom of them up front toward the trailer. They keep the trailer nose from "lifting" during loading/unloading.

They also make it a pain in the ass at times if youre trying to drop the ramps on unlevel ground. Theres been times they dig the ground so hard i couldnt force them down and had to back the truck up.

There are two other options you can consider for that. Straight leg jacks or drop legs that get locked with pins mounted near the back of the trailer. They don't have to be on the ground and pushing. They just need to be near it to catch most of the load when the trailer starts to tip.

I put smaller ones on the back and front of my utility trailer and they make a world of difference when moving stuff around and loading and unloading. And you don't have to worry about making sure a vehicle is attached to hold it in place.
 
There are two other options you can consider for that. Straight leg jacks or drop legs that get locked with pins mounted near the back of the trailer. They don't have to be on the ground and pushing. They just need to be near it to catch most of the load when the trailer starts to tip.

I put smaller ones on the back and front of my utility trailer and they make a world of difference when moving stuff around and loading and unloading. And you don't have to worry about making sure a vehicle is attached to hold it in place.
I actually should do that on my little trailer. That thing i often unhook with junk on it and if it isnt loaded nose heavy it throws the front end up in a hurry.

Matter of fact i took the tounge to the face once unhooking it with some firewood. Woulda killed 10 lesser men.
 
Makes me hurt just reading that.
 
Makes me hurt just reading that.
It wasnt *that* bad. My cheek took the brunt of it. Had a black eye, and my nose bled for a few minutes. Im lucky i turned my head otherwise it pry woulda busted my nose
 

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