Tractors

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Well, draining the trans/hydraulic/axle overnight because it was coming out slow. Drained the engine and there was only 3-4 quarts in there. Seems like kind of a strange setup, there’s like a cup in the oil pan over the hole and a mesh basket that fits inside and lifts the solid cup like 3/4” off the bottom of the pan. Filter fits inside of that. Someone had the mesh basket upside-down and smashed a bit, so I had to work it back close to the proper shape. Put all of that back together. Got the new PTO dust cover on.

Tried to change the steering wheel but that sucker is stuck it seems. The nut came off easy enough. Sprayed a bunch of penetrating lube on there and it makes it’s way through. Won’t pop off though, I whaled on it a bit with a 4# dead-blow with no noticeable movement. No good way to really pry on it without risk of damage. Not quite sure how to rig a puller to pull on the three spokes because that’s all there is to get a puller on. If it was running I could get it over to my torch but I’m not sure if I would risk scorching a seal or something.

 

[racsan]

those steering wheels can be a real pain, usually what had worked for me is having one person pull up on the wheel with someone else smacking the center (nut started on so you dont mushroom the threads) When you do get it off, anti-sieze that shaft so the next time it’s easier.

 

[RumPunch]

I pulled a lot of seized see steering wheels off of Deere tractors. If you maneuver your feet correctly you can likely push up with your feet and putting pressure on the wheel. A ball pin hammer in reverse and sticking the flat face will likely loosen it.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

those steering wheels can be a real pain, usually what had worked for me is having one person pull up on the wheel with someone else smacking the center (nut started on so you dont mushroom the threads) When you do get it off, anti-sieze that shaft so the next time it’s easier.

I didn’t expect it to be this difficult. Kinda don’t really have any help. I was going to put some grease on the new one.

I pulled a lot of seized see steering wheels off of Deere tractors. If you maneuver your feet correctly you can likely push up with your feet and putting pressure on the wheel. A ball pin hammer in reverse and sticking the flat face will likely loosen it.

I might have to see if I can try that somehow. Didn’t think of giving it a few raps with a ball peen until I was already back at the house. Old steering wheel isn’t broke, just the plastic or whatever is all cracked and sheds black powder on whatever touches it. Don’t really want to destroy it if I can help it, just want one in better condition on it. New one looks identical, just in better shape being brand new.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

If you drive it like you are supposed to eventually they quit doing the black powder thing.

 

[RumPunch]

Air hammer if the other technique doesn't work I just try to be minimal as you are putting a lot of force on the gear box, of it is directly connected. If not hammer away!

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Air hammer if the other technique doesn't work I just try to be minimal as you are putting a lot of force on the gear box, of it is directly connected. If not hammer away!

Pretty sure it is directly to the gearbox.

Heat is your friend.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

If you drive it like you are supposed to eventually they quit doing the black powder thing.

Lol, I thought about that, but a new reproduction wheel was $30 and had no cracked plastic and no black powder. For that price I have no problem finding a place to stash the original.

Air hammer if the other technique doesn't work I just try to be minimal as you are putting a lot of force on the gear box, of it is directly connected. If not hammer away!

No good way to even get an air hammer to it unless I get it up to the house and not really sure I could find a good way to use it the way this is designed. There’s a thin metal cup under the wheel wider than the center of the wheel that I guess is designed to deflect rain and dirt away from the seal or whatever which is also why there’s no good way to put a puller on things. The shaft the wheel is on goes right down into the gearbox. No power steering on this beast but even sitting still it’s easier to turn the wheel than most of my trucks if the power steering is out.

Pretty sure it is directly to the gearbox.

Heat is your friend.

Yup, directly to the gearbox. Probably shouldn’t have been whaling away at it like I was, but I think it’s still ok. Thinking I might try a harmonic balancer puller and some J-hooks to grab the spokes to at least get some pressure on it and try tapping around with a ball peen. If that doesn’t work, then I guess I’ll have to get it closer to the torches.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Oh, been meaning to ask you guys, as fas as I know the distributor is still points and condenser. It’s my understanding it uses Delco electrical. I’ve come across a thing that is supposed to eliminate points and condenser, retrofit kinda kit, made by Pertronix. Don’t know if there’s any other options, but I’d rather eliminate the points and condenser. I’ll put the old parts with the collection of replaced parts in case it’s needed, but I’m leaning that way unless someone can convince me it’s not worth converting…

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I have points in all of mine.

0 intention to convert.

 

[RumPunch]

FYI new toy for me over the weekend. Befco used auger traded in at work. Shaft was seized, gear box milky and the coupler on the PTO side was seized. Picked it up for $350 and, had old oil to soak the PTO shaft with after freeing it and had a gallon of gear oil. About 45 minutes of effort it was operational and I was off to plant some evergreens to block the new house put up behind mine from view. Just have to wait a few years for them to grow.

 

[Snoranger]

Oh, been meaning to ask you guys, as fas as I know the distributor is still points and condenser. It’s my understanding it uses Delco electrical. I’ve come across a thing that is supposed to eliminate points and condenser, retrofit kinda kit, made by Pertronix. Don’t know if there’s any other options, but I’d rather eliminate the points and condenser. I’ll put the old parts with the collection of replaced parts in case it’s needed, but I’m leaning that way unless someone can convince me it’s not worth converting…

Ive replaced tons of points with Pertronix Ignitors on forklift engines. We’d get 5-7 years out of them with no issues. (They ran two 8 hr shifts, 5 days a week.) I can’t say anything bad about them.

 

[Roert42]

FYI new toy for me over the weekend. Befco used auger traded in at work. Shaft was seized, gear box milky and the coupler on the PTO side was seized. Picked it up for $350 and, had old oil to soak the PTO shaft with after freeing it and had a gallon of gear oil. About 45 minutes of effort it was operational and I was off to plant some evergreens to block the new house put up behind mine from view. Just have to wait a few years for them to grow.

How well do those things tend to work on uneven ground or a slope?

 

[RumPunch]

Can't honestly answer that with my experience thus far. I live on flat sandy soil... I put 10-12 holes in the ground to plant some bushes then sank the bit halfway in the ground and disconnected it. I did some work with a hydraulic post driver a few weekends ago with a friend on a 15-20 degree slope hill and it was interesting. That being said mine only has fore/aft articulation of the bit so I am thinking you would have to line the tractor up with the angle you needed if that makes sense. Ideally I would have a second set of hands to guide the but to exact point then engage I was just making rough holes though. Hope that answers your question.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Ive replaced tons of points with Pertronix Ignitors on forklift engines. We’d get 5-7 years out of them with no issues. (They ran two 8 hr shifts, 5 days a week.) I can’t say anything bad about them.

Sounds like that’s me then…

How well do those things tend to work on uneven ground or a slope?

Beats digging by hand by far, but I’m not really sure. We had a family friend run his here for some post holes for a shed and patio with roof, but it was pretty flat where we had him working. Bigger problem was hitting rocks here and some are big enough to park a car on.

Can't honestly answer that with my experience thus far. I live on flat sandy soil... I put 10-12 holes in the ground to plant some bushes then sank the bit halfway in the ground and disconnected it. I did some work with a hydraulic post driver a few weekends ago with a friend on a 15-20 degree slope hill and it was interesting. That being said mine only has fore/aft articulation of the bit so I am thinking you would have to line the tractor up with the angle you needed if that makes sense. Ideally I would have a second set of hands to guide the but to exact point then engage I was just making rough holes though. Hope that answers your question.

Ya’ll are reminding me to get looking for a post hole auger, part of the whole reason I wanted a real tractor…