Toyo tires. Manual HUBS.

[James Morse]

Any experience with Bronco Graveyard? Hubs are there, price seems ok (160).
Edit. NAPA has them local might be easier.
Four Wheel Drive Locking Hub - Mile Marker BK 7452697 | Buy Online - NAPA Auto Parts (napaonline.com)
but I don't know if this is the same as MM Supreme
Dana 35 Mile Marker Supreme Lock-Out Hubs-Broncograveyard.com

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Bronco Graveyard is good, I’ve bought from them a few times and called with questions a few times. They’ve always been helpful and there’s some things that only they sell, or at least I haven’t found another seller with anything approaching a reasonable price like they offer on some things. My last order with them was for clutch packs for a limited slip, poly rollers and a hook storage for converting my winch fairlead to run synthetic line, a new diff cover with the bearing cap braces, and some rust bullet paint. Guy sounded entirely bored when I called to ask about the clutch packs (they list three or so and I wanted to make sure I got the right one) and rattled off the one I needed right away. Like he had it memorized.

 

[James Morse]

Found the 37780, supposedly, Paypal pmt only. I'm skeptical.
NAPA has the 29071B that should be the original Ford/Warn hubs? More money than MM. Don't know what the "B" means, guess I could go look at them.
I'm a little confused about the roller bearing vs copper washer described here
Warn Jeep Hubs for the Dana 35 - The Ranger Station
I guess if in fact I can get the 29071B, if that's better than the MM's then I'd spring for it.

 

[James Morse]

Four Wheel Drive Locking Hub - Warn BK 7451135 | Buy Online - NAPA Auto Parts (napaonline.com)
Pics are confusing it looks like two different things. I assume chrome switch is the one. Looks like the black hub has a switch (different) but can't tell what's going on there.
convesion kit below (Warn)
Four Wheel Drive Locking Hub Conversion Kit BK 7453107 | Buy Online - NAPA Auto Parts (napaonline.com)
Edit: Now NAPA took it out of my cart, says n/a.
geesh.
How good is Paypal? If I pay for something and it's bogus will they give me my money back?

 

[Curious Hound]

That picture of the hubs is showing 2 completely different models. The black one on the right is what yours needs to look like. The chrome one will not work with your axle.

 

[James Morse]

No wonder I was confused. Thanks.

 

[00t444e]

Click on the link I posted before then hit add to cart and then checkout, it's that easy. You could have had the hubs installed by now.

 

[James Morse]

Yeah that's what I did, they're in transit. Remembered I have to get grease have to find it in the threads there were several recommends.
Ordered hub socket 5-21 it still hasn't shipped (ebay), wrote to them about it, shouldn't take this long.

 

[James Morse]

Amazon.com: Lucas Oil Red N Tacky Grease/10x1(3x3oz) : Automotive
I think this is the stuff recommended? For the hubs replacement.

 

[Curious Hound]

That's what I use. Some people just dribble in some motor oil or gear oil and make sure it's distributed. I prefer. Thin coating of grease.

 

[James Morse]

Further dumb question. Probably I want something like this
Amazon.com: OEMTOOLS 27104 4-Wheel Drive Spindle Puller Attachment for 5/8" x 18 or 1/2" x 20 Thread Slide Hammer Kit, Fits 1-1/2”, 1-5/8”, and 2” Spindles : Automotive
but probably don't want a whole set - which is the one I want?
I can get a slide hammer, never had reason to use one except in 1972 when I had to replace a Saab water pump (Ford Taurus engine in them) on the road, but actually you don't need one because how they usually did it was just hit it with a hammer and literally break it then it comes out. That was a '68 vehicle, replaced pump in Saratoga Springs State Park, was glad to have my tools with me! Just as I was tightening the last bolt, a state trooper comes by and says, the park's closing, you have to leave. I threw some water in it and I was outa there and made it to Ohio just fine.
Just trying to get tools/materials lined up, it sucks when you're half into something and find out, yikes, should have got xyz.

 

[Curious Hound]

Further dumb question. Probably I want something like this
Amazon.com: OEMTOOLS 27104 4-Wheel Drive Spindle Puller Attachment for 5/8" x 18 or 1/2" x 20 Thread Slide Hammer Kit, Fits 1-1/2”, 1-5/8”, and 2” Spindles : Automotive
but probably don't want a whole set - which is the one I want?
I can get a slide hammer, never had reason to use one except in 1972 when I had to replace a Saab water pump on the road, but actually you don't need one because how they usually did it was just hit it with a hammer and literally break it then it comes out. That was a '68 vehicle, replaced pump in Saratoga Springs State Park, was glad to have my tools with me!
Just trying to get tools/materials lined up, it sucks when you're half into something and find out, yikes, should have got xyz.

Why do you want that? No need for it on this job and likely not needed anywhere on this truck. You're just replacing the hub.

Pull the wheel.
Pull the retaining clips off the studs, if they still exist.
Pull the hub off. It literally just pulls off with 2 fingers.
Remove the auto hub style retaining nuts. (Procedure in the tech article.)
Start installing g the new stuff per procedure.

 

[James Morse]

I’ll have to go pull out my set tomorrow and look for a part number or something or see if I can find the individual pieces. I bought a set years ago that had a couple different of the tabbed sockets and a spindle removal tool for a slide hammer that when used with a slide hammer makes it a slick bit of work. Highly recommend if you have to pull a spindle.

It was mentioned... sorry... right, I should not have to pull spindle to replace hubs.
Manual shows a couple tools they use, but enough people have done it so if I just follow what you've done I'll be fine. I think maybe slide hammer comes into it if you want to replace grease seal/repack bearings. Bearings should be new, although, dealer said they replaced 3 of 4 which seems bizarre and they didn't know which 3 but it should be obvious, I'd think, if one were bad.
I don't have front ABS so that's one less thing to worry about.
I posted the shop manual pages earlier in this thread. I think some of the tools they show, I don't need. Again, I'll just do what you all have done and the shop manual is somewhat helpful. Just trying to avoid having the thing apart then having to chase something, this should be do-able in an afternoon easily.
Then I won't have other half asking "why are you driving backwards" (that's how Ford says to unlock the auto hubs). I'd lock the hubs when going offroad, but leave it in 2wd until I need 4x4, then unlock after. I think that's the routine.
Thanks.

 

[00t444e]

You don't use grease on the hubs, that can make them hard to turn, a light coating of motor or gear oil is what they recommend.

 

[James Morse]

Well, I have heard you don't want to pack them with grease for the reason you state, however, Eric prefers a thin coating of grease (see above).
I think you'd want the red n tacky for wheel bearings for sure, if you had to re-pack them. As to the hubs, I guess then it's a preference either oil or lightly grease.