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towing a ranger


mike2357

Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2012
Messages
23
Vehicle Year
1989
Transmission
Manual
do u or i should say is it better if towing a 4x4 ranger 92 automatic on a car dolly 700 miles to disconnect the rear drive shaft
 
some people say youre fine just putting the tcase in neutral. the pump is driven by the rear output so it should stay lubricated, but if you have an electric tcase they don't have a neutral position. if it were me, i would pull the rear shaft. four bolts at the axle and you can tie that end up, no need to completely remove it. ive also heard people having rear axle troubles after towing on a dolly, i would re-check the gear oil with the truck on the dolly since it will be on an angle. over-fill ti if you need to and just drain back out the extra when youre done. maybe im just overly cautious, i dont know...
 
Anyone who has rear axle troubles after towing on a dolly with the
driveshaft disconnected had rear axle troubles before they started the trip

You can run into "new" vibration issues if you don't reinstall the driveshaft indexed the same was as it was removed.

But frankly if you need to "clock" your driveshaft relative to the axle flange it wasn't correct in the first place. but a splotch of spray paint on the flange before you unbolt the shaft will help you put it back the way it was.

As for towing? the relevant issue is manual or electric shift T-case.


IF you have an automatic trans, an electric shift T-case and auto hubs on the front axle disconnect the driveshaft.

Safest thing to do is unbolt the shaft at BOTH ends and carry it in the bed of the truck
 
The electric t-case has a neutral position, however you do have to remove the t-case shift motor and manually put the shifter shaft there (between the 4HI & 4LO markings on the rear of the case). Probably easier than removing the driveshaft though driveshaft removal will prevent the miles from accruing on the ODO.
 
Semi related subquestion whats a good tow point on a 1st gen ranger/b2 in the front i had to be towed the other day and my dad tried to put it around the steering i said **** that had to go under there my self and i finally squeezed it over the traction beams although with a heavy duty tow roped like we had it was very inconvenient and a very tight squeeze any suggestions?
 
Don't know about 4X4 towing, but I dragged my 93 Ranger XLT Supercab from West Texas to Miss. on a Pennske tow dolly. Ever since I rolled it off the dolly in Miss. the rear end howls...yup, had the driveshaft marked, pulled and tied to the frame. Didn't check the lube before I left, so my bad. Now I'm looking at $500 to replace the whole diff, so I get to grind it to work and back for another month until I can find a rear-end nearby. Proceed with caution...check and double check. In hindsight, kinda wish I had backed onto the dolly and tied the steering wheel off good and tight. Good luck.
 
Semi related subquestion whats a good tow point on a 1st gen ranger/b2 in the front i had to be towed the other day and my dad tried to put it around the steering i said **** that had to go under there my self and i finally squeezed it over the traction beams although with a heavy duty tow roped like we had it was very inconvenient and a very tight squeeze any suggestions?

install a tow point or four, or by some tow chains to hook the chassis properly.
 
Don't know about 4X4 towing, but I dragged my 93 Ranger XLT Supercab from West Texas to Miss. on a Pennske tow dolly. Ever since I rolled it off the dolly in Miss. the rear end howls...yup, had the driveshaft marked, pulled and tied to the frame. Didn't check the lube before I left, so my bad. Now I'm looking at $500 to replace the whole diff, so I get to grind it to work and back for another month until I can find a rear-end nearby. Proceed with caution...check and double check. In hindsight, kinda wish I had backed onto the dolly and tied the steering wheel off good and tight. Good luck.

you must be the guy i was thinking of. i still say check the diff fluid before the trip at bare minimum, i wouldnt think twice about squeezing an extra half a quart into there just for piece of mind.
 
That's what I did with my grandfather's 93 ford ranger 4x4 auto when I towed it from california to idaho a few years ago. Took a bottle of white out and brushed an alignment mark across the output shaft of the rear axle and the shaft. Took it to the local transmission shop put everything back together on it and dropped it off for a transmission rebuild and never had a problem other than another transmission failure 12,000 miles after the rebuild, then the truck went bye bye.
 
If I had it to do all over again, I'd pop for the extra $100-$150 and just get a tow trailer...hitch up, drive on, tie it down and take off. Good luck with your journey.
 
+1 on the rear end lube level, make sure those gears get oil when its at an angle.
 

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