• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Tow Straps


Chains, Cable, straps, synthetic winch cable... all have their place.

Where things get dangerous is when you mix them the wrong way or substitute
one wrong component.

The typical series 20 "proof coil" chain is dangerous, series 40 "high test" is little better
And the problems with it are only aggrevatec by cheap "Home Depot" hooks and shackles.

I have a piece of chain that looks like it's too small to tie up a dog...
but it's series 80 and actually rated to overhead lift 7tons

I also have a chain recovery bridle made of 1/2" series 80 chain
that is intended to (literally) winch a tank out of the mud.

But it's only as strong as the shackles and bolts used to attach it
and whatever structure you attach it to.

But wha't really dangerous is when you use a strong strap or wire rope
to pull against a chain, the cable or strap adds stretch, stretch is energy.
If a strap or cable breaks it's dangerous but not as dangerous as having
it attached to a chain and having the chain, a hook or the attaching point
fail, now the cable or strap is used as a propulsion for that HEAVY length
of chain... chain may not fly as fast but given it's mass it can fly an amazing distance and still be lethal to anyone who has the poor fortue to get in it's way.

Personally I'll use chains, MY chains, Chains I know, on attaching points I trust.

Will I trust YOUR chain, hooks, shackles or attaching points?

OR for that matter your straps or wire rope?

Not a chance.

Know your recovery skills
KNOW your recovery equipment

Stay clear of anyone else's

the only way to observe someone else's incompetence in their equipment
or technique is from a safe distance.


That all being said chains are HEAVY and generally expensive.

a good strap is more than most people need.

but I prefer a good 4" strap.

AD
 
Last edited:
Grade 40 or better rated chain will store only a little energy before it starts to permanently deform and the links will warm up to dissipate that energy as they stretch. Once you pull it to that point it's really not dangerous and once it breaks it'll just collapse under its own weight as others have said.

In rated chain the wire diameter of one link will almost completely fill the radius in the bend of the next link. Under high load the arch will move only a little before settling on the sides of the wire, making a solid connection. In unrated chain there is significantly more room there and the whole arch has room to flex outward under load quite a bit before settling around the wire. That flexing gives unrated chain the capacity to store up energy, which means it has the capacity to jump more when released. Plus it's lighter chain to begin with, so easier to hurl around at high speed.

If you have a chainfall hoist you can see both styles of chain side-by-side. The hand chain has the open links and the hoist chain has the tighter links.

The open links make for potentially dangerous tugging chain. The tighter links make for perfectly safe tugging chain.
 
I've had more bad luck with straps then Chains. i hardly ever use straps unless i need a nice jerk. chains have always done the job for me...but thats just me throwing my 2 cents in the well
 
i have a procomp strap. its 2 inchs wide and 25 feet long. its rated at 40K
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Latest posts

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top