Tow Pig / Daily Driver Build

[mjonesjr]

Got everything buttoned up and done. It drives great and doesn't ride as bad as everyone made it out to be with the F-250 leafs.

With my rough alignment last night, I was within 5* on the toe and 30* on the steer straight. I had it aligned by a shop today.

I love this truck now.

This is the '89 F-350 that I had setting in the driveway to see how the front suspension was together.

A few more pictures after I got home from the alignment shop today.

 

[mjonesjr]

I got the dang thing all together and on the road only to see that an inner axle seal is leaking. So I took it all apart again on Thursday, just to had to wait for Friday to get the seals. I got the Spicer 52148 seals. They are an upgraded seal over the factory seals.

Hopefully I will have the truck put back together tomorrow and back on the road. I've got an appointment on Monday to have a new headliner put in the truck. I can't stand the sagging headliner that the OBS trucks are known for.

 

[RangerSVT]

Maurice, will those seals fit the 1991 model 60?? Great work so far
SVT

 

[mjonesjr]

Maurice, will those seals fit the 1991 model 60?? Great work so far
SVT

I don't see why not, however Spicer list them for the '93-'07 Ford Dana 60. I would almost be it has something to do with differences in the ball joint axle compared to the king pin axle.

 

[RangerSVT]

What is the inside diameter of the tube at the diff?

SVT

 

[mjonesjr]

What is the inside diameter of the tube at the diff?

SVT

I ment to take my micrometer to measure the inside of the tube but forgot to. I can probably dig one of the old seals out and measure it, but it wont be the inside of the tube.

If I think about it tomorrow, I will measure the inside of the tube at the knuckle when I get the truck back from the upholstery shop Tuesday.

 

[mjonesjr]

Got the new inner axle seals Friday night, but couldn't do anything with the until today.

The difference in the new seal and the old seal can be seen right off the bat.

To get the newer seal to work in a '93-'97 Dana 60, you have to do a little modification to the seal itself. The '98-'07 Dana 60's have a larger machined area where the axle slides into the seal than the '93-'97 version. To get it to fit, you have to do a little grinding on the steel lip that sticks out of the inner portion of the seal. Once it is off, the seal will go in the axle like the original seal. Doing this grinding still makes this seal a MUCH better seal than the original.

This grinding will have to be done even if you get the National 710530 as the Spicer seal is made by the same factory and is the exact same seal.

The truck is all back together and on the road again. It is setting at the upholstery shop waiting for its new headliner to be installed tomorrow.

 

[mjonesjr]

The new headliner is awesome. It looks like it did from the factory. They guy who did it said that he took the headliner board out through the doors. Everything I read online said the board had to go out through the rear window; I guess not.

I got the front axle and engine cross member all painted up and looking good.

 

[88_Eddie]

looks good. that's one wicked sweet truck

 

[mjonesjr]

So I crawled under my truck earlier this week to find that my rear diff cover had rotted allowing gear oil to seep through the cover. At one place on the cover, the steel was so week that you could move it with your finger.

So instead of getting a replacement ($50) or an aftermarket ($275), I went with a '08-'11 F-250 & F-350 aluminum diff cover. I picked it up at the local Ford dealer for $79 with a small bottle of Motorcraft friction modifier. The part number for the diff cover is 8C3Z-4033-A. You will have to get new hardware to mount the diff cover as the aluminum one is thicker than the OEM cover. Since they are exposed to the elements, I went with 5/16-18 x 1.5" stainless, stainless flat washer, and a stainless lock washer.

Here is a comparison of the factory cover that came off my truck and the OEM '08-'11 Super Duty cover.

The Super Duty cover is installed with black Form-a-Gasket only. I thought since my housing was an older housing, I would be double safe than sorry. I used the black Form-a-gasket along with a Felpro Sterling 10.25 gasket. I put the Form-a-Gasket on the cover first and the gasket on afterwards.

Got the cover installed and the bolts torqued to 36 ft. lbs. and the fluid installed. I went with 75w90 full synthetic fluid with the 4 oz. of friction modifier.

 

[mjonesjr]

So I crawled under my truck earlier this week to find that my rear diff cover had rotted allowing gear oil to seep through the cover. At one place on the cover, the steel was so week that you could move it with your finger. It probably didn't help the cover when the rear tank was leaking on it.

So instead of getting a replacement ($50) or an aftermarket ($275), I went with a '08-'11 F-250 & F-350 aluminum diff cover. I picked it up at the local Ford dealer for $79 with a small bottle of Motorcraft friction modifier. The part number for the diff cover is 8C3Z-4033-A. You will have to get new hardware to mount the diff cover as the aluminum one is thicker than the OEM cover. Since they are exposed to the elements, I went with 5/16-18 x 1.5" stainless, stainless flat washer, and a stainless lock washer.

Here is a comparison of the factory cover that came off my truck and the OEM '08-'11 Super Duty cover.

The Super Duty cover is installed with black Form-a-Gasket only. I thought since my housing was an older housing, I would be double safe than sorry. I used the black Form-a-gasket along with a Felpro Sterling 10.25 gasket. I put the Form-a-Gasket on the cover first and the gasket on afterwards.

Got the cover installed and the bolts torqued to 36 ft. lbs. and the fluid installed. I went with 75w90 full synthetic fluid with the 4 oz. of friction modifier.

 

[chrwilkins30]

thats pretty cheap for an aluminum especially from a dealership. Looks good.

 

[mjonesjr]

I got the old gauges uninstalled and the ScanGauge installed. I am going to wait till spring to paint the gauge pod to match the interior.

I have to wait for my new boost PSI and fuel PSI sensors to arrive. The ones I got were bad. Hopefully they will be here this week so I can get the full function of this thing going.


Before:

After:

 

[mjonesjr]

I got the old gauges uninstalled and the ScanGauge installed. I am going to wait till spring to paint the gauge pod to match the interior.

I have to wait for my new boost PSI and fuel PSI sensors to arrive. The ones I got were bad. Hopefully they will be here this week so I can get the full function of this thing going.


Before:

After:

 

[mjonesjr]

I decided to take the wheel trim off the truck today. I am sure glad I did to clear out the gunk.

Decided to take all the wheel trim off and leave it off. This spring the side molding will be coming off as well. I just need to figure out how to get the tape off without damaging the clear coat.