torque converter won't go in all the way, 4R44E

[pjtoledo]

finally getting around to putting the 2000 back together but the torque converter won't go in all the way.
truck is parked on 4" blocks, plus its sitting high because the engine is missing. (a 3.0 so no big deal) so it's a bit awkward under there.
me being 68 with a bad back doesn't help matters any.
after wrestling, rotating, re-seating and pushing for a while I gave up for the night. I think I need to wedge something under the converter to take the weight off the shafts.
I did replace the input seal. that's the same converter that came out, fresh paint is all.
what do ya'll think, go in another 3/4 inch?

the gold bar is flat against both sides of the housing. which means the snub is protruding about 3/8" past the housing.
according to my measurements the stud surfaces need at least another 5/8" to clear the flex plate.

 

[pjtoledo]

the back of the engine.

 

[55trucker]

I know what the problem there is........

the torque converter lock-up input shaft is projected outward. It won't retract back to it's normally seated position because the cavity in behind the shaft is filled with fluid. Get on the very front end of the input shaft with a pair of vice grips and lock onto the shaft (don't mar the shaft surface), now give the grips a good jerk away from the trans (or you may need to use a soft hammer to hit the grips to move the shaft outwards), the fluid should release out the drain port behind the input shaft & now the input shaft will bottom & you'll get the converter to seat all the way down.

 

[Snoranger]

How far into the trans did you go? Just the seal?

 

[pjtoledo]

How far into the trans did you go? Just the seal?

just the front seal

 

[pjtoledo]

update time, I cheated, but finally got the converter to seat fully.

pulled the inner shaft out and ground a small taper on each end, cleaned and polished the ends.

I hope it doesn't matter which way the shaft goes because I may have put it in backwards.
the splines are a bit shorter on one end, or maybe they are longer on the other, not sure which.

after the tapering only 1 end would go into the tranny, and only the other end would go in the converter.
sounds good, but I swear that it should be the other way. oh well, swearing doesn't always help so what the hell.

to start it all, the inner shaft protruded about 3/4" when the converter wouldn't go on. seemed to be about the same when it finally worked.


EDIT: the A4LD service manual says "short side down" when installing the input shaft. so does the 2005 5R44 manual.

 

[Snoranger]

update time, I cheated, but finally got the converter to seat fully.

pulled the inner shaft out and ground a small taper on each end, cleaned and polished the ends.

I hope it doesn't matter which way the shaft goes because I may have put it in backwards.
the splines are a bit shorter on one end, or maybe they are longer on the other, not sure which.

after the tapering only 1 end would go into the tranny, and only the other end would go in the converter.
sounds good, but I swear that it should be the other way. oh well, swearing doesn't always help so what the hell.

to start it all, the inner shaft protruded about 3/4" when the converter wouldn't go on. seemed to be about the same when it finally worked.

It can go in backwards. If you install it backwards, you can’t fully seat the converter. That’s where I was going with my “how far into the trans did you go” question.

 

[Dirtman]

swearing doesn't always help

You sir are wrong.

 

[pjtoledo]

It can go in backwards. If you install it backwards, you can’t fully seat the converter. That’s where I was going with my “how far into the trans did you go” question.

it goes far enough in to rub & bump on the ribs and bolts behind it.
today I just put it in then moved on to other stuff.


tomorrow I'll spend some time measuring and fitting.

 

[pjtoledo]

You sir are wrong.

you sir sound just like my wife. only she doesn't call me sir, sir.

 

[55trucker]

Just a thought, while you has all of this apart did you also replace the O-ring that goes around the hub shaft?
I had to replace my converter 4 years ago, was puzzled as to why the new converter would not slip back into place all the way, was advised that the shaft was fluid locked (hence the *pull the shaft outwards then push it back in*), the old O-ring was worn, replaced it with an updated *new* teflon design O-ring.

 

[pjtoledo]

I'll look into that.

 

[pjtoledo]

update, it's in all the way with the assistance of some handles. the holes are 6-9/16" center-center.
checked shaft, short side is inside tranny like it should be.
the studs are 3/8-24 fine thread in case you don't want to screw up the special lock nuts.
fyi: the bolt spacing and thread pitch is different than a Taurus 3.0 torque converter.

 

[Dirtman]

View attachment 62271

I don't know how to feel about this...

Half of me wants to make fun of you for needing handles, but the other half wants to applaud your ingenuity.

 

[racsan]

I guess that means the taurus 3.0 flexplate would be different from the ranger 3.0 flexplate, odd that they couldnt be the same. Maybe a diffrent stall speed between the two converters due to gearing and or chassis weight? I know my ‘93 taurus couldnt pull anything, the 2.3 ranger s/c with manual & 3.73’s was better at pulling a trailer then the taurus.