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too much motor for stock parts...


PaleBlue90

Well-Known Member
Solid Axle Swap
RBV's on Boost
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
3,650
City
Aurora Colorado
Vehicle Year
88,89,90,92,93
Transmission
Manual
heres my friends 72 blazer, 3.73's open at both ends,GM 10 bolts,33's and a 425HP small block chebby. he blew the rearend apart during winter....

the rig
Photo-0071.jpg


carnage pics
Photo-0065-1.jpg

Photo-0067.jpg

Photo-0068.jpg

Photo-0072.jpg

Photo-0069.jpg

Photo-0074.jpg

Photo-0073.jpg


now were waiting on a few more parts and then shes done. i helped yank it out,rebuild most of it just today.

heres my buddy eric working
Photo-0070.jpg
 
FYI the red car is his, 70 monte carlo,the car next to me in the pic of the rig is his dads 72 nova drag car (he let me move it out of the way) and yes that is a workinf soda machine with cable tv ontop of it:D
 
That's the reason he needs a 12 bolt:icon_twisted:

shit meant 14bolt.....
 
Last edited:
12bolt aint nothing special either, he needs a dam 9"
 
That's the reason he needs a 12bolt:icon_twisted:

That IS a 12-bolt (the front should be a D44 in that thing)

With 33s, a 14b 9.75" SF would probably work well. The FF 14b is a bit of a land anchor with 33s though.
 
I thought the GM 12bolt was good to something like 7500 lbf. He'd need around 5000 ft-lbs to do that with 33s. While that's a dynamic force (perhaps with shock loads), somehow, I don't think so.

It's not just torque that kills rear ends. It could VERY easily be incorrect setup. And WTF? Why don't I see a nice polished contact pattern on that ring gear? Was it a brand new setup? This is more or less exactly what I'd expect on a pinion installed with no shims, especially if it had zero preload.
 
I'm not sure I see anything there that indicates poor setup, the teeth do look smooth to me. I think it was gear deflection that killed it (too much torque). The pinion stems on 12-bolts are not near as big as on our 8.8s (1.4-something inches IIRC, probably about the size of the D35's).
 
It's the ring gear image I'm looking at in particular. Every used rear end I've looked at has had polished contact spots visible on the drive side. The pinion image is too blurry; I can't tell. But the ring gear looks like it has the factory phosphate coating (or maybe a layer of surface rust) on it. It's hard to tell there as well, but that's the best quality image.

Low pinion depth or excessive backlash or a moving pinion (no preload) would make gear deflection a whole lot easier.
 
If I blew up a rearend, I wouldn't put the thing back in!!! I would upgrade.
 

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