Tony Raine's Bronco II

[Robert_1967]

weld the 35 together, and then weld it to the caged low rider, drop in some sort of engine and tranny and have a fun little go cart truck.


Robert

 

[Tony Raine]

weld the 35 together, and then weld it to the caged low rider, drop in some sort of engine and tranny and have a fun little go cart truck.


Robert

tempting. i actually just got rid of a running 2.8 and 2 tk transmissions. it would be a rough ride though, that rear axle is welded straight to the frame.

 

[Robert_1967]

arn't all go-carts a rough ride, just think of all the fun, take the springs off the 35, weld it to the frame.


Robert

 

[Tony Raine]

arn't all go-carts a rough ride, just think of all the fun, take the springs off the 35, weld it to the frame.


Robert

basically a giant motorized skateboard?

nah, if i want fun with stock parts, i have a complete, stock rig lined up.

 

[Tony Raine]

Got the axle a little closer to being installed

First I put the axle close to the stock wheelbase. Found an existing hole on the driver’s side (but not a matching one on the passenger side) that almost centered the axle over the coil bucket.

Here are some pics of the 78-79 radius arms with TTB 35 bushings in TTB 44 radius arm mounts

Small gap (temporary)

This pic shows how much the radius arm sticks out from under the frame

I plan to move the front axle forward 1” from stock, unless anyone has been successful with more, while still using the stock steering box (I have a drop pitman arm too).

Any tips for measuring to make sure everything is straight before I drill, is much appreciated. I have set the body level, and working from there.

Decision time: Do I

1. Modify body mount so I can move the radius arm mount forward
Or
2. Get the 10” radius arm extensions from Stone Crusher when I get my steering. (this will also get my radius arm mount away from that goofy fold on the lower part of the passenger side frame rail on 84’s)

 

[Tony Raine]

alright, as soon as the funds are added to my paypal (gotta wait 3-5 days dangit), i'm getting the stonecrusher extensions.

also picked up a set of decent tires for rollers. 235's, but free is free. now all i need are a couple 5 on 5.5" rims so my utility/scrap metal trailer can have its wheels back.

 

[Tony Raine]

Slowly chipping away at this. Very slowly. My radius arm extensions will be here tomorrow (no one at home to sign for them today). Then I will start the tedious task of making sure everything is lined up before I start drilling.

Debating how I am going to make a lower coil mount 3” inward, and 1” back from stock. The mystery coils I have fit pretty well in the stock upper mount, so I think I will leave that alone

Took the radius arms off and ground off the homemade coil bracket that was on there.

Now I need to make something else to go in its place…..

 

[Tony Raine]

Got my radius arm extensions

total length from center of axle to here is just a hair over 43"

excellent product, they screw on to keep them aligned for welding. I think i will mock up the radius arm bracket location with them just threaded, then take them back off and have them welded. plus i really want to get this thing roll-able, because i think i'm going to move it behind the shed, in the shade. after working outside all day, the hot afternoon sun is kicking my ass when its wrench time.

any helpful hints for removing these bolts?

think i could drill them out and tap it to a larger size?
or drill a smaller hole and use an extractor?

Thanks!

 

[Robert_1967]

Drill a smaller hole and extract them out, but be sure to add some heat to help free them up.



Robert

 

[multiranger]

I have to agree with Robert. The B2 is looking good BTW!

 

[Tony Raine]

thanks ya'll!


think THIS would work?

does the hole i drill have to be perfectly centered, or is it ok to be off a little?

 

[Robert_1967]

I guess those would be fine, just use the biggest on that you can when you drill it out, and it would help if you center punch the bolts to help keep your bit from walking around.




Robert

 

[multiranger]

thanks ya'll!


think THIS would work?

does the hole i drill have to be perfectly centered, or is it ok to be off a little?

Get it as close to center as possible but you can be off a little.. that tool should be fine to use... if it is rusted I would soak it with something.. I always prefered auto transmission fluid for rusty stuff myself.

 

[Robert_1967]

And if you throw some heat into it, and then let it cool after pouring trans fluid on it, that will help wick it down in to the threads.




Robert

 

[Tony Raine]

local HF is out of extractors, guess i'll just order some online

Doing a lot of measuring today. Working on getting the radius arm brackets in the correct location. First I engineered a “wheelbase alignment device” to push the axle 1” forward from stock. According to my measurements (which I really hope are correct),

-a BII wheelbase is 94”
-I want 95” (for this measurement, the rear axle will be moved out later)
-the dia of a ford 7.5 axle tube is 3”, a dana 44, 2.75”
-take the radius of the 2, subtract from 95, and you get 92.125” (92 1/8) between the tubes

Construct one “wheelbase alignment device” and install

And I tied up a fender to get an idea of what it would look like

And it just doesn’t look right to me. Looks like it’s more than 1”. But I have to keep in mind that the coil bucket is not centered above the axle on a stock rig (remember, I have a completely stock b2 to compare with)

Thoughts?

I am also looking at track bar location with the axle in this place. For those with a SAS, does your track bar tuck inside the TTB crossmember, sit in front of it, or did you have to cut a bunch of it out?

Thanks!