TK4 won't go into gear after TO bearing replacement

[dwhile]

I'll take a picture of it next time I'm out there, but its just a small hand pump canister attached with some line to a reservoir cap that I've drilled a hole through and installed a hose barb. I just had the whole hydraulic system off the truck and reverse bled by pumping the slave cyl and was rewarded with some air bubbles. I'm thinking I didn't get them all, will take cylinders and res back off this afternoon to do some more.

 

[8thTon]

Why bother with these other things when you know the bushing is missing?

 

[dwhile]

I replaced the bushing a few minutes ago and still no shifting into gear. There must be air somewhere.

 

[RonD]

Clutch pedal pushrod should be tight against master
Push down on the pedal with your hand while watching the pushrod and master
You should NOT be able to push down master with your arm, at least not easily
If you see master piston go down a bit before pedal gets stiff then you have some air at the top of the master

Pull it out flip it upside down as Denisefwd93 suggested, and try power bleed that way

 

[Denisefwd93]

My heart goes out to ya... Hope the pedal bracket isn't broke...

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

If the bleeding doesn't work check the following

Problems I've run into;
-one of the ears on the master was broken allowing flex.
-the firewall was cracked allowing flex

 

[8thTon]

My experiences bleeding the clutch in my 1990 are part of why I agreed to get an auto this time!

 

[dwhile]

The new master cyl I bought has a nice metal housing that is still intact. Firewall looks to be okay as well. Did some more bleeding, and before putting the system back on the truck I said heck, I'll try to push the clutch fork in by hand. I grabbed an extension and tried to move the clutch fork back. It wouldn't budge. Is this normally the case? Seems like I should be able to get it to give with enough elbow grease, but its not budging.

 

[RonD]

Clutch fork.....................do you have an external slave?

 

[dwhile]

Yes, its an external cylinder.

After some reading I don't think I should expect to be able to push the clutch fork by hand. Going to bolt in the cylinders and see what I get.

 

[RonD]

No, you can not push it in by hand

There should be an adjustment, on the slave push rod?

 

[dwhile]

The slave push rod has no adjustment, just a plain metal rod. Reinstalled cylinders after another round of bleeding and same result. Thinking I should peek a camera in the bell housing tomorrow and see what is going on when the pedal is pushed.

 

[dwhile]

I attached a picture of the bleeder I made.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I attached a picture of the bleeder I made.

Cool, I have the parts too.

 

[Denisefwd93]

On the GM transaxles that use an external slave there is always been problems with the length of the push rod bending of the crank arm or fork, and confusion as to which slave cylinder actually works on a particular model. What you're going through, with this seems eerily similar,


Is it the correct slave cylinder, does it actually have the stroke required? my son came up with this idea years ago, he cut down an overhead valve push rod to make a new and longer one.

Your pressure bleeder may be pushing air right back in where you're trying to remove it,. Don't know, just throwing it out there for points to ponder.