Personally, I hate all-season and summer tread tires. But I also typically do not have long commutes and I have to be able to not only get off the side of the road on muddy jobsites, but be able to get myself back on the road. For several years I ran my 2wd Ranger on a regular basis, but for the past year and a half I upgraded to a 4x4 F-150 for work.
Because I do sometimes travel long distances, I didn't want to drop money on mud tires, so I pick the baddest looking all-terrain style tires I can find. Something with big voids between the tread blocks and the knobby blocks with factory siping. So far that has done me right with tires. My 2wd Ranger went surprisingly well in the winter with a good aggressive AT tire - I ran Remington Rimfire XT tires (no longer available unfortunately) and Sport King AT tires (also no longer available locally) on my Ranger. Both did quite well. My F-150 I had some "all season" tires on it when I got it, and it required 4x4 to go anywhere in the winter. I got fed up halfway through last winter and bought a set of Nexen Roadian ATII tires (31x10.50x15) for it. Surprise! I didn't hardly use 4x4 after that because I didn't need it.
My test for picking tires is to look at one of them in my size and stick my fingers down in the voids between tread blocks. If my fingers hit the bottom of the void without really any force and I like the pattern, I give 'er a try. FYI, BF Goodrich AT KO tires do NOT pass this test for me, and I have tried running them before - haven't been happy with 'em.