Timing HELP! 85 ranger

[tacomansc2]

I have the 2.8 v6 on a 1985 ford ranger XLT i just got. I was trying to figure out the timing but i don't see a bolt to loosen the distributor. my chilton manual does not really say anything about distributor removal so im a little confused. It does say that some models came with a security bolt but doesn't specify any further. A friend told me he thought i wasn't suppose to move the distributor for timing on this type of ford. ( seeing as this is a my first ford im a little lost..) Does anyone have any pics or step by step guides for timing? or explanation on how to?

 

[Rowdy Fitzgerald]

There's a bolt there. Is it buried in oily dirt and grime? Scrape it out then use a air gun to clean it up. It will be either 1/2" or 9/16ths.

 

[enginepaul]

Or 13mm as this is a Metric engine. It is very hard to see that hold down bolt; especially if it is dirty.
Check the timing FIRST - you rarely have to move the distributor once it is set, even after a tune-up.
Check this site for timing instructions.

 

[tacomansc2]

The only bolt i see is for the octane adjustment rod which is on the carburator side. would it be on the firewall side? not mud or grease all clean. is there something hidden under the cap?

heres a link to a diagram i found.

http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_1_39.jpg

 

[Rowdy Fitzgerald]

Feel down the distributor as far as you can. It will be at the base of the distributor. You'll have to feel for it cuz I don't think you can see it.

 

[Rowdy Fitzgerald]

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Why are you adjusting the timing did you check it first by disconnecting the spout wire. There are six wires coming out of the side of the distributor. One of the wires has a connector just unplug the connector and it should be at 10 degrees BTDC. Use the pointer and not the round thing you may need to clean the pully marks it is best to do it from underneath and put a white mark one line back from the 12 on the pully. You must disconnect the spout wire to obtain base timing. The bolt is 13mm and under the crossover tube in the back of the block. It is hard to see and even harder to get a long wrench on, a stubby 13mm box end wrench works the best. Normally the timing will not change unless the cam gear on the dizzy gets worn down. The cam and crank are gear driven and rarely if ever go bad.
1- loosen the bolt just enough to barely turn thre distributor
2- bring the engine up to temp and disconnect the spout wire
3- adjust the timing to 10 degrees using the pointer and tighten the bolt.
4- double check the base timing and connect the spout wire
the engine may stall when you disconnect the spout just turn the key off and back on and it should idle for you.
The timing is controlled by the computer as well as engine idle are you sure it is in the timing or is it computer related?

 

[tacomansc2]

the truck has been sitting for 3 years. the lady i got it from said her son tweaked with the timing a bit before the carb died and they parked it. its kinda sluggish when accelerating and you can feel the lack of power and motor has a slight vibration. did a complete carb rebuild on it and plugs and wires so i figured timing was next in line. thanks for the great input guys ill post again if i can figure this out tommorow

 

[kimcrwbr1]

If your going through the computer you need a manual. You may get a cheap one at the bone yard if you find one in the pile. Confirm the timing is correct clean the intake temp senser with rubbing alcohol (in the air filter housing) make sure all the sensers are connected and the connectors are clean. Confirm all the vacuum lines are clear and connected properly. To reset the computer disconnect the battery for 1/2 an hour then see how it runs. you can pull the codes with a test light, analog volt meter (needle sweep) or with a code reader. If you find you cannot eliminate the egr code/s and you dont need to pass emissions do the duraspark conversion and bring that engine to life.