Timing cover potential for ruining Oil pan gasket


Ede

Forum Member

Joined
Feb 12, 2023
Messages
22
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City
USA
Vehicle Year
2000
Greetings first time poster, long time lurker. I’ve owned my 2000 3.0 flex fuel for 20 years. At times I’ve hated her —like the time my cruise control started on fire and she tried to burn me— but otherwise she’s always been good to me so I want to fix her up at 161,000. I have a couple questions:

1). I’m currently in the process of changing the head gaskets and have the heads removed. I was getting exhaust gas in the radiator from #6 combustion chamber. I decided to preemptively replace the water pump and I’m now considering replacing the timing chain and cover gasket. The only thing that gives me hesitation is I’ve heard from a few sources that the top of the oil pan front gasket can become ruined with removing the timing cover. Furthermore, the coil spring style suspension requires, lifting the engine in order to replace the oil pan gasket and its supposed to be a real PITA. I currently can’t get an engine lift in my garage. Is there anything I can do to lessen the likelihood of it injuring that gasket on the oil pan while removing the timing cover? I’ve heard from makuloco on YT that some pan gasket are tan and floppy and have to be replaced while the firm ones don’t need to be—he was doing a timing cover on 3.0 Taurus.

And yes, I have already replaced the cam synchro.

2) What can I use to deep clean the intake manifolds and valve covers? This ZEP is supposed be aluminum safe. CanI soak them in hot water and this ZEP degreaser? Thanks


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for lifting the engine without a hoist construct a swing set type of support and lift the engine with threaded rod or ratchet straps,
the feet of the swing set rest on the fender rails.
it will only lift a few inches, depends on your set up.
some guys make them out of 2x4s, AKA wood.

this gives you an idea what it is.

Engine Support Bar | NAPA Auto Parts (napaonline.com)
 
for lifting the engine without a hoist construct a swing set type of support and lift the engine with threaded rod or ratchet straps,
the feet of the swing set rest on the fender rails.
it will only lift a few inches, depends on your set up.
some guys make them out of 2x4s, AKA wood.

this gives you an idea what it is.

Engine Support Bar | NAPA Auto Parts (napaonline.com)
That sounds interesting and something worthwhile investigating. I’m really hoping I won’t have to do the oil pan gasket, but this may be an option if I absolutely have to. Do you have a picture by chance of how the swing set hoist rests on the fender rails? I’m trying to visualize that.
 
it rests on the flat area where the bolts are.
4 pressure points for a 400 lb engine puts only 100 lbs per foot, easily supported by the fender rail.
the ends are shaped like triangles, or legs, some bracing is needed for side to side stability.
my home-made one has steel tube with pads welded on the ends.
a couple layers of duct tape prevents scratching.

I've seen ones made made of 2-2x4s supported by plywood triangles.

some have a second cross beam that rests on the radiator support.
 
it rests on the flat area where the bolts are.
4 pressure points for a 400 lb engine puts only 100 lbs per foot, easily supported by the fender rail.
the ends are shaped like triangles, or legs, some bracing is needed for side to side stability.
my home-made one has steel tube with pads welded on the ends.
a couple layers of duct tape prevents scratching.

I've seen ones made made of 2-2x4s supported by plywood triangles.

some have a second cross beam that rests on the radiator support.
Sounds great, I will have to find a photo, I’m a visual learner.
 
my support was intended to just hold an engine. for lifting it would need to be a few inches taller.
 
It's still fairly neat there PJ

How much will that single nut hold that's on the lift part? I've been wondering that since I'll be using a bit of that myself in the not too distant future
 
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it's a 1/2" eye, not sure what the specs are. usually have 2 or more without any problems.

if you're worried about the nut get a union or whatever they're called, 'bout an inch tall.

the small eye facing up is to lock the bracket in place.
 
Naw, I was just being curious. I still have a lot of figuring to do before really digging into it
 
How much does that oil pan need to be bumped to cause a leak. I'm hoping to pull one out of an Explorer and drop it right back into a Ranger. The engine won't actually move, the vehicles will be all that moves. I really hope not too much will get bumped around much
 
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@Ede I have not done a timing cover on a 3.0 before but I have done several 4.0s without changing the oil pan gasket and I believe the 3.0 is a similar design. You just have to be very careful when pulling the timing cover off so that you don't rip the oil pan gasket and then be very careful putting the timing cover back on so that the pan gasket is aligned correctly. 20-30 years of extreme temperatures will make gaskets brittle.
 
Wasn't there a time or engine that required, or recommended loosening (Not totally removing) of the oil pan bolts (either all or most all) in removing the timing cover (or possibly chain). Prior to Ford I mostly worked on Chevy and Dodge/Plymouth, and one of them had to lower the front end of the oil pan
 
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This is the front of a OHV 4.0 with the timing cover removed, you do have to take out several bolts that go through the oil pan to get it out.

Timing cover potential for ruining Oil pan gasket
 
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