Timing Belt Job and Related Stuff

[tajvelocity]

So I started the timing belt job on my 99 2.5. This might be a really dumb question but...

I have all the marks (camshaft, oil pump and crankshaft) lined up. Does this mean that it's at TDC on cylinder #1? I don't know how you'd do this without removing the radiator. I couldn't see a damn thing with that in the way. I didn't have the right sized socket so I just turned the crank pulley by hand (I know I'll need a socket to get the thing off...any idea what size it is?!). I'm also replacing the water pump, thermostat and flushing the radiator and heater core...not that I really know how to do any of these things yet, but hopefully I can figure it out and not have to tow it.

I think I may be in over my head, but I can't afford to pay someone to do it. Luckily I have a spare car to drive while the truck is down.

 

[tajvelocity]

You know what? I'm guessing that yeah, that's TDC on #1. I just wasn't sure if that meant if could be at the top of the compression stroke on any one of the four cylinders or just #1. The Haynes manual kinda sucks, but I knew that. Better than nothing I guess.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I think you could also be out 360 degrees. The crank turns twice for a full engine cycle. I've never worked on a 4 cyl. but the best way I can think of right now... while the engine isn't turning over on its own.... is to pull the valve cover. Both the intake and exhaust valves should be closed. You should be able to spin the pushrod with your fingers. At the same time the marks at the front of the crank should be pointed at 0 degrees, + or - a few degrees.
I would also suggest removing the rad as that will give you more room to work without punching a hole in the thing.
I'm not a mechanic but I'll help with what knowledge I have until someone with more/better knowledge sees this thread.
Good luck,

Richard

 

[scotts90ranger]

if the crank mark is lined up #1 is at top dead center, the camshaft being lined up makes it the compression stroke, so yes that means it's at TDC

I think the crank bolt is 22mm or 7/8" but I could be wrong

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

^^^ dop, I feel a little silly now.

Richard

 

[tajvelocity]

if the crank mark is lined up #1 is at top dead center, the camshaft being lined up makes it the compression stroke, so yes that means it's at TDC

I think the crank bolt is 22mm or 7/8" but I could be wrong

Thanks man. I feel a little silly now too but I usually do whenever I stick my head under the hood. Gotta start somewhere though right?! I have to wait until the weekend to get back to it. The truck is at an undisclosed location in a valley. Over the river and through the woods type of stuff.

 

[scotts90ranger]

took me a while to figure that out too

6 years ago I didn't know a whole lot about engines, now I know all sorts of intricate details of how they work...

 

[tajvelocity]

Judging by your signature I believe you!

 

[scotts90ranger]

I wasn't even talking about that... I program engines for a living too... just got back from Australia on a trip to make sure some of them worked properly...

 

[tajvelocity]

Also real quick: I didn't remove the spark plugs. I disconnected the plugs from the coil packs though so it doesn't accidentally start on me when I'm turning the crank shaft. Is this ok?

 

[tajvelocity]

Ok that last one was a stupid question I guess but THIS one is legit!

One of the thermostat housing bolts broke. I extracted the rest of it from the engine with some needle nose pliers. I need to find a replacement bolt asap. Ford calls that bolt obsolete and doesn't make it anymore. So I went to Lowe's and found two that I think are the same size:

Assuming they are, do you think I can use these, or at least one of them? My concerns are that the area under the head of the new screw is a little smaller. Also the new ones don't have that taper at the end and I'm not sure if that matters. The potential for rust concerns me but maybe I'll hit the head with some paint when they're on. The torque for this bolt is only 120 in/lbs I believe. 10 ft/lbs of torque is pretty low. Maybe some Loctite (blue?) and I'm good?

HALP!

 

[Mikel89us]

they will work if they are the right thread.

 

[tajvelocity]

I think they are. The truck isn't at my house and I haven't made it down there to check, but the bolt i had and the bolts I got fit nicely into the little threaded female gauge in the hardware isle.

 

[scotts90ranger]

all the bolts on a 2.3 are metric so it should be right. Your concern on the bolt head is legit, but just use a washer or two under the head...

the taper at the end of the stock bolt is to ease assembly so their mass production workers can jam stuff together as fast as possible.

and on your previous question, with the ignition switch off turning the crank with a wrench has no way of the engine running unless someone jumps in the drivers seat with the keys...

 

[tajvelocity]

Good deal guys. I appreciate the help.