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Time for a new clutch. I could use some help


modelageek

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2009
Messages
2,241
City
Boston, MA
Vehicle Year
2004
Engine
4.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
The clutch finally started to slip.... I have never removed a tranny or swapped out a clutch. I have have done a lot of other work on the truck, balljoints, brakes, etc....I am looking for some feedback on how tough it is, how much the tranny weights. etc. I looked in the Haynes manual but they seemed to skip over the part about removing the bolts from the tranny and engine. how many bolts are there are they accessible. I was going to use a luk clutch and slave. I also plan on either turning the flywheel or replacing.........any help would be appreciated....
 
okay
1-new clutch disck kit (includ align tools and pressur plate...)
4-1 foot extention barr and impact rench
1 socket 13 mm I think
etc
to start, take off his rear differential will be useful for the grounding of the gearbox and then disconnect all conection connects the left and right ex-hydraulik = speedo hose then reacted by loosening the bolts fixing the engine. put a floor jack under it not to receive it on the head the rest seems very easy I already made my mine

flywheel =just do a sandblast to remove dirt disk unless you had a damaged tooth

it weighs around 200 pounds should not receive it on the head
i made in 3 hours
 
Last edited:
Transmission is about 90lbs, and I believe has 6 bolts (13mm heads) holding it to the engine (the 2.9L/4.0L does anyway).
Transfercase (if 4WD) is about 65lbs.

Luk is a good choice. :icon_thumby:
 
Transmission is about 90lbs, and I believe has 6 bolts (13mm heads) holding it to the engine (the 2.9L/4.0L does anyway).
Transfercase (if 4WD) is about 65lbs.

Luk is a good choice. :icon_thumby:

thnaks i thought it was around 100lbs( thats good news). I thought i read somewhere that there were 2 bolts at the top that were harder to get at but maybe i read it wrong. I looks like there are 2 at the bottom and 2 on each side that i can see. Do you think I should turn/replace the flywheel? I am not looking for stuff ot do but I dont want to get that vibration when starting off in 1st gear.
 
I have been doing some research and it looks like there are 8 bolts? the 2 at the top appear to be a pain. Did i read somewhere that you can access them through the opening in the shifter? is the head of them facing toward the rear of the truck.......
 
Once you separate the exhaust just past the converter and detach the drive shaft and cross member, the engine will slant backwards allowing easier access to the top two bolts.

These top bolts can also be removed from the top without disconnecting anything if you are good at working by feel with a box end wrench.
 
Once you separate the exhaust just past the converter and detach the drive shaft and cross member, the engine will slant backwards allowing easier access to the top two bolts.

These top bolts can also be removed from the top without disconnecting anything if you are good at working by feel with a box end wrench.

thanks for the excellent feedback!!!
 
yea you need to disconnect atleast one side of the exhaust the 2 top bolts arent too hard to get to just need enough extension. i thought the exhaust was the most difficult. oh and getting the tranny back in was one of the hardest things i have ever done. just double check all connections before you pull it the last thing you wanna do is rip something off. I had to get the tranny up and then push with my feet on the tail to get it mated maybe cause the new slave was real stiff. oh i would recommend getting a new slave cyl too cause the last thing you wanna do is get it all back together and realize it is going bad, not too expensive anyways. and the quick disconnect to the slave is a bit tricky sometimes. i had to use the old o-ring cause the new one let it leak go figure. I just did mine so i hope this helps
 
yea you need to disconnect atleast one side of the exhaust the 2 top bolts arent too hard to get to just need enough extension. i thought the exhaust was the most difficult. oh and getting the tranny back in was one of the hardest things i have ever done. just double check all connections before you pull it the last thing you wanna do is rip something off. I had to get the tranny up and then push with my feet on the tail to get it mated maybe cause the new slave was real stiff. oh i would recommend getting a new slave cyl too cause the last thing you wanna do is get it all back together and realize it is going bad, not too expensive anyways. and the quick disconnect to the slave is a bit tricky sometimes. i had to use the old o-ring cause the new one let it leak go figure. I just did mine so i hope this helps

thanks. i was planning on a new slave. I am even teetering about replacing the flywheel, the pilot bearing and the rear main seal. I think i might be able to leave my exhaust alone because it is the 4 banger...........now i just have to find a new crossmember.........mine is trashed.any ideas?
 
4 cylinder 2wd trucks are easy. You don't have to remove the exhaust or anything. I pulled a tranny out of one about a month ago and it took me about an hour and a half. I don't think the top 2 bolts are bad as you can get those with a good amount of extension after removing the crossmember. It's 1 of them on the drivers side of the engine that you almost have to wrench out 1/4 of a turn at a time. I think you are right about there being 8 13mm headed bolts.
 
A clutch kit with clutch, pressure plate, slave, throwout bering and shaft bushing, The flywheel probably has cracks and not that expensive to replace and if you want replace the rear main on the engine while you have it apart. You will know on the flywheel and any signs of engine oil in the bell housing rear main seal is suspect.
 
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I was able to get to the top bolts using extensions, and then coming through the hole in the floor for the shifter (popped them loose no sweat). I found the ones on the passengerside of the bell to be a bigger pain (though I was also working with the exhaust still in place, the tranny is just able to squeak past the pipe if you have a body lift).

A flywheel was about $70 last time I bought one, I'd just replace it (at least resurface yours, otherwise the clutch disc might not break in correct).
 
It's not that hard. If it's a 2x4 you won't have to monkey with that transfer case so that's a plus. Assuming your trucks up on jackstands, you can get to those 2 top bolts by standing on a stool and reaching between the engine and the firewall. Use a 13mm or a 1/2 wrench, you'll never see 'em until you take 'em out. I use extensions and a pivoting ratchet head that reach half way back the tranny to get the other 4 bolts out. I'd definitely replace everything, a flywheel only costs about $65, take from someone that didn't. The tool that makes the task easier for me is that $100 Harbor Freight transmission jack.
 

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