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Tilting a truck on it's side? Is this safe way to work under vehicle?


OilPatch197

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Folks around here simply tip over a vehicle and use a good solid post to "prop" the car on the two wheels on the passenger side.

You make sure you dig in the post in the ground and have it notched or locked/wedged into the frame.

This way you can work from the side of the vehicle and do less crawling. :icon_thumby:

Seems safer than using cinder blocks :icon_surprised: and more safer than jack stands.
 
Are you aware that crack, is in fact, whack?
 
I prefer straddling a ditch with my Ranger (to work under it)..................

it's kinda like a built-in lift.......in reverse....... :icon_bounceblue:

until a thunderstorm hits........ :annoyed:
 
Pics or it didn't happen!! lol I wanna see the after math of such stupidity just so those individuals don't reproduce
 
If you just lift the truck more then you can eventually walk under it.

But seriously, a 4" lift made it about perfect to crawl under. And i'll use cinder blocks in good condition no problem... but tilting the truck? Maybe it'll get that last drop of atf out of tranny...
 
I wouldn't trust it. However, when I bought a 93 Explorer for the axles, seats and radiator etc. I flipped the whole truck on it's side to pull the axles!
 
Well as long as you don't hang around the tires you should be fine. If it falls, it is a truck and has enough clearance for you to fit under (hopefully), but if it falls the other way you'll just see the sky.
 
LMFAO

But propping up 3500lbs with a log is a fantastic idea!

It's OK, as long as you use two....

fail-mechanic.jpg
 
O.K.

looks safe to me with the extra post......

just one question......no---2 questions......

(my back isn't what it once was)

1. How do I get it to lean that far to one side?

2. To be safe---shouldn't I have a short post on the passenger side to keep it from "laying over" if I get to pulling too hard on the pipe wrench?
 
O.K.

looks safe to me with the extra post......

just one question......no---2 questions......

(my back isn't what it once was)

1. How do I get it to lean that far to one side?

2. To be safe---shouldn't I have a short post on the passenger side to keep it from "laying over" if I get to pulling too hard on the pipe wrench?

Answers:

1. To lean it that far to one side, you need to drive it up on some block ramps very carefully, while having an assistant place the posts. Once the posts are set kick the blocks out from under the wheels.

2. The post on the passenger side should be placed against the passenger side door then one against the truck bed.

3. Note, while working under the vehicle the posts may be in the way, its simple to adjust just keep kicking them over until they're out of your way.

Yeah....umm no not a good idea to do this at all, one slight slip and hitting one of those posts will send the truck crashing down on top of you, and you most likely can't move fast enough to lay flat on the ground before the truck falls on you breaking your neck, back, etc.

And, if you have one of those low-rider trucks forget it completely it will still smash you flat as there's absolutely no room underneath for the ground and yourself LOL.
 
Answers:

1. To lean it that far to one side, you need to drive it up on some block ramps very carefully, while having an assistant place the posts. Once the posts are set kick the blocks out from under the wheels.

2. The post on the passenger side should be placed against the passenger side door then one against the truck bed.

3. Note, while working under the vehicle the posts may be in the way, its simple to adjust just keep kicking them over until they're out of your way.

Yeah....umm no not a good idea to do this at all, one slight slip and hitting one of those posts will send the truck crashing down on top of you, and you most likely can't move fast enough to lay flat on the ground before the truck falls on you breaking your neck, back, etc.

And, if you have one of those low-rider trucks forget it completely it will still smash you flat as there's absolutely no room underneath for the ground and yourself LOL.

Correct.....having worked with/around heavy lifting equipment, I am amazed at how fast a 20,000 pound piece of steel can hit the ground from a height of 10 feet.
You'd think that the heavy object would need a second or two to build up speed so you could leap sideways----------------NOT SO! You don't have time to blink or say "OH ***t"........matter of fact----you don't have time to say "O" without the H.
 
I used to shore pieces of LNG hull with 40'+ Doug fir 12 x 12s Of course, they were bolted in a shaped shoe welded to the hull. The guy welding the gas tank could weld a shoe to frame and knock it off afterward. That would be the SAFE way :icon_welder:

When I was base lining the Rat, I had it 2 feet in the air on a crib of 4 cement blocks and wood. I was able to sit comfortably under the tunnel when I worked underneath it. You ALWAYS use a block as it would be used in a wall. Cores vertical with thick plywood or 2x s between the blocks and the ground and the blocks and the frame. You can use 1 block for an 8" lift. 4 must be used to go to 16 inches THe layers are cribbed at right angles It is more stable than jack stands. They should be only used on concrete. With wedges and stuff, I can accommodate a small slope. It is just shoring on smaller scale than what I did for 7 yrs. :D
 

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