Tie rods hitting each other?

[94_Xploder]

Im finishing up the lift and using a extreme drop pitman arm and the inner tie rods are very close when the wheels are straight. Anyone run into this problem? When you turn the wheels they hit each other, Anyone know a fix for this?

 

[94_Xploder]

I think I may have figured it out, Im using a skyjacker 6in soft ride coil What im thinking happend is it didn't lift the whole 6 inches only 4.5-5 inches and with the extreme drop pitman arm there is no clearance. So what ill probably end up using a stack of washers to get another 1.5 inches out of it. Am I thinking correct on this?

 

[4x4junkie]

In a couple cases I've seen of this in the past, the tierods were of mis-matched brands (Moog on one side for example, OEM or something else on the other, etc.).

Is it just barely hitting? Maybe you can grind a slight bit off the edge of the pitman arm TRE if it's real close to clearing.

Other options would be:
Get matched tierods on both sides,
Bend the D-side tierod back just a hair and/or the p-side straighter slightly (up to ¼" shouldn't weaken it appreciably),
Move the axle rearward by shimming or trimming the radius arm bushings (last resort).

 

[scotts90ranger]

Mine does that, and I think my steering linkages are stock, I'm planning on straightening the passenger side link (I have a spare in case something goes wrong) since I need to push the axle forward a smidge...

 

[legoms013]

Other options would be:
Get matched tierods on both sides,
Bend the D-side tierod back just a hair and/or the p-side straighter slightly (up to ¼" shouldn't weaken it appreciably),
Move the axle rearward by shimming or trimming the radius arm bushings (last resort).

Mine did it when my brands were mismatched too (when I had the stock linkage and FA600).

Has to do with variation i the final bends and due to the FA600 not having a huge throw like the FA400 pitman arm (doesn't stick out as far to reduce leverage).

If its not clunking too bad or noteacble I'd leave it....