This just seems odd to me

[Fryedbm]

Should this grease be here? Wheel bearing need packed or replaced? Thoughts .....

 

[rumblecloud]

Question is a little vague, but:
If there's no grease, then yes, it should be there.
If there's no grease, then yes, it should be replaced.
If there is grease, then inspect bearing(s) for damage.
If there's no damage, then replace them anyway --- and make sure the new ones are packed with grease.

 

[Fryedbm]

Question is a little vague, but:
If there's no grease, then yes, it should be there.
If there's no grease, then yes, it should be replaced.
If there is grease, then inspect bearing(s) for damage.
If there's no damage, then replace them anyway --- and make sure the new ones are packed with grease.

I guess the question was.....should I be concerned it even looks like that? Should that hub be completely dry? Does that make more clear the question? Sorry

 

[RustyShackleford94]

I picture would help. But no it should not be dry in there.

 

[Fryedbm]

I picture would help. But no it should not be dry in there.

I forgot the pic!!!! Lol

 

[Blmpkn]

The cap was probably re-used last time bearings were done, supposed to be replaced.

 

[Fryedbm]

This look satisfactory?

 

[Curious Hound]

This look satisfactory?

Hard to tell. I use a red colored grease. So, if I open it up and most if it looks brown, it's definitely time to change it. If in doubt, disassemble, clean, republicate and reassemble.

 

[Fryedbm]

Hard to tell. I use a red colored grease. So, if I open it up and most if it looks brown, it's definitely time to change it. If in doubt, disassemble, clean, republicate and reassemble.

Ty. Is it necessary to remove my rotor to replace any of this. (upper control arms,lower ball joints,sway links,inner tie rod and tie rod ends)

 

[Curious Hound]

I don't think it's required. But it would reduce the weight of the steering knuckle/spindle and make that easier to manipulate. Last time I had all that apart, I was replacing the knuckle. So I had to disassemble everything.

 

[Fryedbm]

I don't think it's required. But it would reduce the weight of the steering knuckle/spindle and make that easier to manipulate. Last time I had all that apart, I was replacing the knuckle. So I had to disassemble everything.

Ty

 

[Fryedbm]

I was able to take off axel nuts with my fingers. That's not right is it?!? As in.....no socket required!!!

 

[Curious Hound]

I was able to take off axel nuts with my fingers. That's not right is it?!? As in.....no socket required!!!

The final torque on those nuts is just a few (10-15) inch-lbs. Just barely over finger tight. But there is a higher torque for seating the bearings first. You need to follow the procedure when you put it back.

 

[Dirtman]

I was able to take off axel nuts with my fingers. That's not right is it?!? As in.....no socket required!!!

That nut only gets torqued to a MAXIMUM of 12 INCH pounds. So yes it should be around finger tight.

When you put it back together it needs to be done by first torquing the nut to 20 foot pounds while spinning the rotor, then back the nut off completely and re tighten to 12 inch pounds.

 

[Fryedbm]

That nut only gets torqued to a MAXIMUM of 12 INCH pounds. So yes it should be around finger tight.

When you put it back together it needs to be done by first torquing the nut to 20 foot pounds while spinning the rotor, then back the nut off completely and re tighten to 12 inch pounds.

Ty. I'm glad I asked. Does this all look good as far as you can see?