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thermostat replacement.


bizarro302

Active Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2015
Messages
42
Age
44
City
Portland, Maine
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Manual
My credo
it's not rocket appliances
I'm planning on replacing my thermostat, and the coolant temp sender. Was going to get a stant superstat 195 and a bwd sender. My temp gauge moves, but never goes more than slightly past c.

How much of a bitch is the stat to get to? Truck seems to run fine, but I know the gauge isn't reading right and it's bugging me.

I do have a lift if it's easier to access from below.
 
If your 3.0 is the same as mine (2001 Edge), you'll need to drain some coolant. But, the t-stat housing is right on top of the engine, at the front. Follow the top radiator hose, from the radiator, to the engine. I don't know where the coolant temperature sender is though. If you're going to crack open the cooling system, you might was well do it all (hoses, new coolant, t-stat, temp. sending unit, etc.). You might be able to skip the heater hoses. But, with the age of your Mazda, you might want to consider replacing those, too (if they've never been done).
 
If your 3.0 is the same as mine (2001 Edge)
The ECT (Engine Coolant Sensor) for the ECM is located in front by the thermostat.
The Coolant Temp Sender is for the dash gauge. It is located at rear of engine on passenger side near the top-
 
Thanks guys. I'm going to do a flush as well. Will inspect the hoses and possibly replace. You are probably right regarding the age. If it's not too pricey I will do the sensor for the ecm as well.

I'm trying to pick away at all the little things I can do to keep it from a premature death. Hoping to get another 50k miles out of her.
 
Replacing the thermostat may fix your low coolant indication on the gauge.

Save yourself some money and time and do the stat first. The sender is easy to do after as it takes very little draining to lower the coolant enough to remove it.

As for the sensor (ECT) after you replace the stat and get the engine to full operating temp you can test the resistance at 195F and match it to spec. If it's close it's OK and doesn't need replacing.
 
I'm trying to pick away at all the little things I can do to keep it from a premature death. Hoping to get another 50k miles out of her.

Heck, from my perspective, if your sig is correct with ~100k, you're just getting it broken in. I'm ~250k miles. I'M hoping for another 50k, but the body will rust out by then.
 

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