• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Thermostat issue


copracr

Active Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2011
Messages
30
Vehicle Year
1998
Transmission
Manual
To start with, my 95 ranger 2.3L wass only getting up to about 150 degrees after a long warm up. I figured to start with the easy t-stat replacement. Now it takes way longer to warm up, like 20 minutes. and it never gets past C even rolling down the highway. I would just go straight to replacing the water pump but it seems like the thermostat that I installed was kinda loose in the housing and I'm wondering if the coolant is bypassing it more than the old one.

Any advise?
 
Funny I saw this post on the home page. I just bought a '95 with the 2.3L, and was researching a how to, in regards to leaf spring hanger replacement.

But, I also have nearly the same issue as you, with the thermostat. Before I bought it, I noticed on a test drive, that the temp gauge never budged off the bottom, and I drove it several miles. The PO had it "repaired" and said a new thermostat was installed to replace the original, that was stuck open. Good, I thought.

Well, now it does warm up, but takes many miles, and still barely makes it into the normal range, and fluctuates quite a bit as speed varies. Plus, it has a coolant drip that appears to be coming from the thermostat housing. :annoyed:

So, looks like I get to install a new thermostat and gasket, and maybe even a housing, to fix the "fix". Jeesh, and this was supposedly repaired by a mechanic?

I am interested to hear what you find out...
 
Last edited:
I recently fixed mine...it would not blow heat...the thermostat was wonky on mine plus I mixed the coolant with not enough water...so when I thinned it out a bit AND burped the air out it works fine...

So check the fluid and cut it with more water and leave the cap off and run the engie till it hits operation temperature before capping the rad...this should only be five to seven minutes tops...

Feel the heater hoses...if they get hot then your water pump is working...but I had to actually drive mine to get it hot...

As for leaks...they have to be fixed before the system will work...
 
I recently fixed mine...it would not blow heat...the thermostat was wonky on mine plus I mixed the coolant with not enough water...so when I thinned it out a bit AND burped the air out it works fine...

So check the fluid and cut it with more water and leave the cap off and run the engie till it hits operation temperature before capping the rad...this should only be five to seven minutes tops...

Feel the heater hoses...if they get hot then your water pump is working...but I had to actually drive mine to get it hot...

As for leaks...they have to be fixed before the system will work...

I ran it maybe 20 minutes with the cap off. I added about 1/3 a gallon afterwards. The temps never go up for me though. The upper radiator hose is warm though, but not hot. Besides the exhaust, nothing gets hot.
 
that thermostat housing sucks to seal too, the paper thin gasket wont seat if there is any liquid what so ever on eather surface. and where the inlet tube goes in is hard to get the gasket to stay in place while your attempting to put the pass side bolt in, i might recoment some of the permetex gasket glue, put a light coating on the inlet neck and lay gasket over top until it gets hard ( bout 5 mins) then a very thin coating on the other side of the gasket, if you put a thick layer on your never getting it off again. but that will stop any leaks after it is set. (let sit 5 mins after bolts are tight)
 
that thermostat housing sucks to seal too, the paper thin gasket wont seat if there is any liquid what so ever on eather surface. and where the inlet tube goes in is hard to get the gasket to stay in place while your attempting to put the pass side bolt in, i might recoment some of the permetex gasket glue, put a light coating on the inlet neck and lay gasket over top until it gets hard ( bout 5 mins) then a very thin coating on the other side of the gasket, if you put a thick layer on your never getting it off again. but that will stop any leaks after it is set. (let sit 5 mins after bolts are tight)

I found that out. I thought it would take 20 minutes and it was more like 2 hours. I ended up waiting for the rtv to dry to hold that gasket in place like you said
 
Funny I saw this post on the home page. I just bought a '95 with the 2.3L, and was researching a how to, in regards to leaf spring hanger replacement.

But, I also have nearly the same issue as you, with the thermostat. Before I bought it, I noticed on a test drive, that the temp gauge never budged off the bottom, and I drove it several miles. The PO had it "repaired" and said a new thermostat was installed to replace the original, that was stuck open. Good, I thought.

Well, now it does warm up, but takes many miles, and still barely makes it into the normal range, and fluctuates quite a bit as speed varies. Plus, it has a coolant drip that appears to be coming from the thermostat housing. :annoyed:

So, looks like I get to install a new thermostat and gasket, and maybe even a housing, to fix the "fix". Jeesh, and this was supposedly repaired by a Ford service department?

I am interested to hear what you find out...
The fluctuating gauge is caused form either air in the system or not enough coolant(which really is the same thing)...the sensor is not submerged in the coolant as it flushes over the sensor it fluctuates..........add coolant and burp the system..................

to all in this thread you only want to use a Motorcraft T-stat. Get the highest degree possible at least 190.........The tstat needs to sit properly in the housing. for most models it needs to be twisted in place.

Place cardboard over the front of the radiator. Staples sells a perfect size white cardboard that is 1/4" thick. I think it was $5.... it fits in perfectly and then I run a bungee cord from 12 to 6 o'clock

you also might want to change the rad cap......

These engines naturally run cool.......
 
to all in this thread you only want to use a Motorcraft T-stat. Get the highest degree possible at least 190.........The tstat needs to sit properly in the housing. for most models it needs to be twisted in place.
.......

Yea, mine was kind of loose in the housing. There was no twisting needed to push it up in there. I think it needs to come back apart :icon_confused:
 
This is supposed to be a motorcraft t stat but it still has those metal stand offs. Does that seem right? If its supposed to twist in then it wouldn't need those, right? So I'm looking for one without the metal stand offs I assume.

I installed one that looked like this
 

Attachments

  • tstat.jpg
    tstat.jpg
    12.9 KB · Views: 178
Last edited:
This is supposed to be a motorcraft t stat but it still has those metal stand offs. Does that seem right? If its supposed to twist in then it wouldn't need those, right? So I'm looking for one without the metal stand offs I assume.

that is what the tstat for my 99 looked like. the metal "standoffs" get sandwiched between the block and the housing and help hold it in place. get a motorcraft and get the highest degree you can!
 
The one I took out, which worked a lot better, looked like this guy with this kind of gasket
 

Attachments

  • tstat.jpg
    tstat.jpg
    12.7 KB · Views: 157
This is supposed to be a motorcraft t stat but it still has those metal stand offs. Does that seem right? If its supposed to twist in then it wouldn't need those, right? So I'm looking for one without the metal stand offs I assume.

I installed one that looked like this

for your 95 rockauto shows the same thermostat as the one that goes for my 99 motorcraft #F8CZ8575AA....$11
 
The one I took out, which worked a lot better, looked like this guy with this kind of gasket

Did the one you just install have the metal "standoffs"......I strongly recommend the motorcraft but if that is not possible people have had good luck with the Stant
 
I used one of those 190* Fail Safe...they're great as long as you don't cook the engine...and I've only done that once (just prior to blowing my head)...
 
Did the one you just install have the metal "standoffs"......I strongly recommend the motorcraft but if that is not possible people have had good luck with the Stant


I'm not sure which brand I put in, but it had the metal stands.

modelageek- Rockauto shows the pic of the motorcraft thermostat as having metal stands. Are you saying it doesn't have them?
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Latest posts

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top