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the Lawn Mower thread.


Bring back the old tecumseh engines.

Define "old". Every Tecumseh engine I've had over the years, I've had problems with. The last one I got rid of in 2014 (but I was dumb enough to buy another one). My first one I got in about 2004. I ran it for four years, but I think it was the one I changed the brake cable on. The second one I got in about 2012. I ran it for two seasons before I got rid of it. THAT one, I wish I knew what I know now. Tecumseh engines have a design flaw in the brake cable setup. Instead of the CABLE moving the lever on the engine, the HOUSING moves the lever. Over time, this causes the cable to stretch to the point that the mower won't start. I think it was last spring that I finally fixed the one I got in 2014 (that was nothing but trouble!). I had a neighbour look at it. He looked at the bottom end of the brake cable, disconnected it, and wired the brake in the released position with a piece of welding rod. Ever since, that mower has been a treat to run. I'd have kept it, except that I have a bad shoulder, and I needed to buy a self propelled mower (bought that today for $250.00). If this mower (Honda) is anything like Honda's cars, I'm going to get a lifetime out of it.

I've also had a Briggs & Stratton that I really liked. Bought it brand new in 2008, it was even self propelled. Unfortunately, in 2009 I started having trouble with it (if there wasn't enough gas in the tank, it wouldn't start (probably needed more than 1/4 tank to start). I might still be using it if I hadn't bend the shaft in 2012.

If Tecumseh would fix the brake cable setup, they'd have a really good engine.
 
Should be Model Type and Code numbers on the fan housing. Pretty much all Briggs have them, might be actually stamped into the cover, might be on a tag/sticker.

full-9450-23842-engine_code_zpsdicmnrvl.jpg


Most small engines have the plug wire(s) attached to the ignition model so to replace a wire you have to change the module. And there is a certain air gap you have to maintain between the flywheel and the module too.
ok. ill have to take off the plastic cover tomorrow.
will replacing the solenoid give me spark. just curious as to why they would stock those and not plug wires
 
Plug wires are part of the ignition module, just about every engine uses a different one.

s-l640.jpg


There are only 3-4 popular solenoids, usually they cause no crank. You can jump them with a screwdriver to mow in a pinch but usually they don't effect running.

Of course there are a bunch of switches on a newer mower that could cause no start... like pedal position, seat or deck engagement.
 
Here’s my mower... I replaced the original handle bar with a chrome one from an 80’s MTD mower. That added a throttle adjustment. I also added a taller oil dipstick.
27469
27470
27471
 
I put one of these spark plugs in and call me crazy, but the spark feels more aggressive to me. More power?? I put the old spark plug in the package. I always keep one spare.
27472
 
When I change the oil, I use this oil and a splash of zmax. I want to put a drain plug with a magnet in it, on this engine. But I don’t know where to get one this size. Anyone have a link to one?
27473
27474
 
27477

This was the original plug as far as I know, it was replaced back in Feb. with the exact brand and model. "RC12YC"
 
thanks @85_Ranger4x4 I read the comments and questions in that forum, seems about right, :beer: next one is on me
 
yes. no spark. like i posted. i could not find a replacement coil wire, only a generic solenoid from HD.



Intek 17.5hp
8BSXS.
build date 09 08
Is this enough info

Should be Model Type and Code numbers on the fan housing. Pretty much all Briggs have them, might be actually stamped into the cover, might be on a tag/sticker.

full-9450-23842-engine_code_zpsdicmnrvl.jpg


Most small engines have the plug wire(s) attached to the ignition model so to replace a wire you have to change the module. And there is a certain air gap you have to maintain between the flywheel and the module too.
As 85 said. Get the model and serial number from there. Usually run coil to flywheel gap around .009"
 
Check You Tube. There are several how to videos there that are made by professionals.
I sold mine to my brother when I moved to Arizona from Michigan where I upgraded the rock covering in my yard to a larger size and a darker brown color. This is our third Spring here and I have not had a single problem with starting a mower! Same with the snowblower in the winter!
 

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