the final solution

[bmxboy809]

1986 Ford ranger

engine:
1985 Merkur Xr4Ti Bottom end (50K miles)(145lbs compression on all 4 cylinders)
1985 Merkur Xr4Ti head
1988 TC short plenum intake
1986 Merkur Xr4ti Turbo

new O2 sensor
new head gasket
new cap & rotor
new plugs
new ignition module
new coil
new 1988 Large VAM
new BAP
2.5 in exhaust no muffler
Magnaflow High flow Cat
High flow air filter

TRE high flow fuel pump
New in line fuel filter
Brown top injectors
new stock TC fp regulator

88 EEC-IV LA3 computer (no tune)
repinned ranger harness


eliminated:
EGR
no electric fans
ranger external fuel pump


Stock timing (0 degrees BTDC base timing, 10* BTDC spout in)
used the straight edge method for aligning the cam gear


I got the truck running again but it is not making the power that it should. Everything seems to run well but when the turbo spools up I see 10lbs of boost on the gauge, 1400 degrees on the EGT but not feeling any power. The ehaust is too hot at idle but it idles smooth. Fuel pressure is 30psi at idle and 43psi under boost.

I am experiencing lots of blow-by, the pcv hose blows apart and the breather recirculation hose blows out under boost. This is the second 2.3T that I have had in the truck, both have done this.

The first motor had very similar troubles, but a knock picked up by the knock sensor was causing the computer to severely retard the timing. By simply unplugging the knock sensor the timing was corrected and it ran great. The knock was found to be wrecked main bearings. I found another donor car with less miles for much less than rebuilding the first motor. I swaped in the new block and head and was able to sell the rolling chassis.

I have had lots of small problems getting this motor running all along the way but have now replaced nearly every sensor and component. From everything I have read the combination of parts that I have will provide the most power but the truck just doesn't make the power it should. I am not trying to build a bullet proof race car to run on the track and am also on a college kid budget. I have even less money to spend now than I did in highschool so this problem needs to be resolved without replacing every part just to find the one that is causing all the trouble. I CAN NOT afford to rebuild the first motor yet but maybe some day that will be the way to go.

I am looking for affordable suggestions, its not that i dont have money i just cant afford to waste it. With all due respect, if you are not extremely familiar with FORD 2.3 Turbo motors please allow those who are to respond.

I have been at this for a long time and everyone here has been very helpful, but the problem is very specific. At this point it looks like timing or fuel delivery problem. Is there a way I can hook a computer up to it and monitor the timing curves while driving?

 

[bmxboy809]

I had a slight break through this afternoon. I checked the PCV only to find that the guts of the valve were missing. Where they went im not sure. I was having trouble with the hose blowing apart so I put a clamp on it, hopefully the rest of the pieces fell out on the road rather than into the crank case. With the valve replaced the truck runs better but still pretty far from where I want to be. It idles slightly cooler than before, and it will quickly return to that temperature at a stop sign for example. Under boost the temp is still way too hot and there is not a real strong pull. I am looking at a fpr Accel #74753. Could this solve the problem? Has anyone used this part?

 

[dangeranger93]

Stock timing (0 degrees BTDC base timing, 10* BTDC spout in)
used the straight edge method for aligning the cam gear

Im pretty sure you want 10* spout out, not positive seeing as i dont use a distributor but i think thats how it works.
I also dont run a pcv system just crankcase to air and the valve cover plugged for now untill i get a catch can for them to go to, I have a little blow by at the dipstick but nothing serious

 

[Snoranger]

Im pretty sure you want 10* spout out, not positive seeing as i dont use a distributor but i think thats how it works.
I also dont run a pcv system just crankcase to air and the valve cover plugged for now untill i get a catch can for them to go to, I have a little blow by at the dipstick but nothing serious

0° probably isnt enough base timing. Stock is 10° IIRC, but thats just a starting point on a modified motor. You'll have to find what works the best for your combo.

 

[bmxboy809]

Thanks guys i think I finnally figured it out. Way back when i was timing the first motor i was told base timing should be set to 0*. I advanced it to 10* and it rips now! How far can I advance it using premium pump gas and 45-50psi fp?

 

[fordman2121]

If your staying at 10 psi you could advance a couple degrees but you would get more power by turning up the boost, max of 18 psi on pump gas and leave the timing at 10.

 

[bmxboy809]

well its been a while since I have visited the ranger station. But i have pulled my truck out again and am doing a little work on it. Everything works pretty well. But i still have a couple problems. First is, after replacing the PCV and getting the timing right I have oil comming out anywhere it can. it is commming out the oil filler and the breather on the valve cover. Every time i start the truck i puffs alittle blue smoke like there is oil settling in the exhaust or turbo housing. But on top of that, I am getting high EGT under boost or when I am on the highway at 60mph and maybe 1lb of boost in overdrive. Fuel Pressure is around 40psi under boost.

I found a broken wire on my vehicle speed sensor, will fixing this help my EGT come down some. It is hitting 1600* under load but takin it easy will settle back down to 11-1200*. I will be driving this truck for a few weeks while i lift my jeep

thanks guys, I have always found TRS very helpfull, much unlike jeepforum....

 

[Davis]

The VSS will not likely have any effect on the EGT. EGT is affected primarily by timing, and I don't think that VSS influences timing.

 

[martin]

It sounds like it's going lean under boost, the only way to be sure would be to install a wide band and see what's happening.

 

[bmxboy809]

thanks guys,

I will be looking into an a/f gauge and sensor. Up untill now I didnt have the money to spend on a gauge. But I do think its leaning out under boost. But it is not nearly as bad at lower speeds. It seems to be a problem for highway driving. My hope is that Timing curves are adjusted by the computer based on feedback from the VSS. But sounds like that is a no.

So if I already have the brown top injectors, and a high flow pump, what can i do to make sure I am getting enough fuel? I am currently using the stock FPR. Does that mean the next step would be to turn up the FP and get a tuner?

 

[5speedin2.3]

I would get this and a wideband o2.
http://www.stinger-performance.com/universalparts.html

 

[Quickranger]

First, i would ditch the pcv valve and use a catch can. That will help blowing oil out. It is getting boost in the carankcase. Also, make sure you have a check valve in the brake booster vac line, so no boost will get there.

Fuel. What is the fuel pressure at idle? It should be 40psi with vac line disconnected. You are using a Merkur, TC intake and fuel rail, right? If not, you need that, with the fuel regulator, it rises under boost. At 10lbs of boost, you should see about 50-55 psi.

Edit, i see you are using a stock TC regulator. There is a vac line connected, right?

 

[bmxboy809]

There is a vacuum line on the regulator. I see 20psi at idle WITH IT CONNECTED and at 10lbs of boost i see 45psi. Has anyone used This accel FPR that goes on the stock fuel rail?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ACC-74753/

how would i set up a catch can?