The 2.9L lifter ticking Saga "Help"

[88 XLT Ranger]

Hi TRS Pro's

I had an overheating issue and lifter ticking I got the overheating under control cracked head I think. I used Bars head gasket stop leak the Copper stuff it worked no over heating no loss of coolaint after 50 miles. I did have to un-plug my heater core twice but its working thus far. My main issue is lifter and rocker arm ticking I fire it up cold it ticks at a high pitch than gets more mellow. I drive up hill 5 miles to town it gets quite than shut it off start up it sound like a sewing machine its like an on and off deal. I put 3 quarts of Lucas oil stabilizer one quart of Red Line 50W synthetic racing oil and one 1/2 of 20-W50 Valvoline with filter change. Have any of you gone 100% Lucas? I got smog check in August here in Ca I am stressing out I reached my limit with this Ranger. I hate to send it off to the bone yard and get a Toyota 4X4 I need a 4X4 the winter is rough here. I was born Ford like to stay Ford but can't afford to fix the lifters. You guy's been down this road before give me the close to death lifter in a bottle fix

 

[Spott]

Anything that comes in a bottle will be a temporary fix; in the case of your engine, a very temporary fix. I doubt there's anything easy that can be done that will get you past your inspection.

If you have another vehicle you can drive in the meantime, you can give your engine another 20+ years of life with a full rebuild. It's surprisingly affordable, if you do the labor yourself. Even with the purchase of a few special tools for the job, and a factory service manual, you should stay well under $1000 (and you're not going to find a Toyota worth having for that price.) Depending on your skill level and interested helpers, you can probably get it done in a month's worth of weekends.

Do it, and you'll have peace of mind knowing that your engine is, once again, all fixed up and running right.

 

[Big Jim M]

When first starting and the lifters shut up, do they shut up completely? Or do a few of them still click?
If it is completely quiet then I'd guess the cam lobes are good enough for new lifters.
Although I have never put new lifters on an old camshaft. It might work for you.
I will suggest pulling the head and cleaning up the top of the engine. However if money is that tight then you just might be keeping it like it is.
Was it mine I'd be looking for a nice core engine and rebuilding it in my garage while this engine still has some life in it. After a complete rebuild of the core engine, I would install it and have a real nice ride for years to come.
However if money were that tight then I might be looking to trade that vehicle in on one that "seemed" to be a better deal than the rebuild. Trading vehicles is like a box of chocolates! Ya never really know what you are gonna get.
Big Jim

 

[AllanD]

First I'll say this: cats "meow", dogs "bark, Ducks "quack" and finally 2.9s "tick"

I suggest you live with it.

Reality is this, "New lifters" will have more or less the same issue,
the problem is partly an inherent design issue with the lifters that is coupled with a design issue with the engine's oiling system.

Most of the easy "fixes" that you can attempt will at best not work and at worst create other issues that are much worse.

Changing the lifters isn't easy, they cannot be removed from the block
unless the heads are first removed...

even "Adjusting the rockers" can create a "bind" in the rocker arms at full lift which often causes cracks at the base of the shaft supports...

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[88 XLT Ranger]

Thanks guy's

I ticks loud at start up and gets a little less noise it continues for 5 miles than gets to where I hear nothing ticking. I stop turn it off for couple minuts than start it and ticking again and running not so good than after driving it gets better. I think the quart of synthetic red line oil thinned it out and the 20W-50. The Lucas here at Napa is $9.99 a quart maybe try 5 bottles of the thick stuff?

 

[Big Jim M]

If I was going to simply put thick oil in it and let em click. I would NOT use a variable viscosity oil. I would drain it and put straight 50 weight oil in there. Even if I had to go to a less advertised oil. I betcha it would help a lot with the startup clicking.
Big Jim

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

If I was going to simply put thick oil in it and let em click. I would NOT use a variable viscosity oil. I would drain it and put straight 50 weight oil in there. Even if I had to go to a less advertised oil. I betcha it would help a lot with the startup clicking.
Big Jim

Big Jim

Thank you for the help, I did notice before with two quarts of Lucas and two quarts of Valvoline 70W but it was racing oil and 1 1/2 of 20W50 it was ticking on startup not bad but going on the highway it got silent than nothing until after 30 miles coming home up hill the ticking started as the oil heated up. I know Lucas said no more than 60% in any engine? What do you think go 100% on Lucas. I only have O-Ralleys and Napa here in this country town they don't have much. I been using my dads old racing oil stash last was the 50W red line synthetic that hurt it I think

 

[Mark_88]

I recently had a 2.3 that was blowing oil and leaking all over the place. I was using Lucas but at about 10% along with 20w50 for the most part...as long as it wasn't cold.

If where you are living is cooler then avoid using heavy oil...summer is OK in most areas but fall/winter/spring be careful...

Not knowing where you are from so this is just a caution...if warm climate...ignore...lol

But I will say...after the engine blew up it was very quiet...

 

[Big Jim M]

Oil is simply oil! Fancy named and advertised oil is still JUST OIL! I betcha there is some 50 weight oil in one of those parts houses.
In all my rides I simply use Pennzoil or whatever is on sale at the change places nearby.
What most guys use is still simply oil! No matter what the ads say it is OIL!
Synthetic oil is oil that will withstand heat that your engine CANNOT put out. At normal engine temperatures synthetic is just OIL! After the engine gets so hot that it blows up the synthetic is still oil, but until that time it is the same as normal oil. Synthetic will do NOTHING for a vehicle engine that normal old time oil won't do.
As I said I'd put straight 50 weight oil in there and be done with it.
I live in Texas and have no worries about the oil being too thick in the winter.
Big Jim