Thanks for the recognition and potential help.

[rummie46]

Just re-joined the site. Wanted to tell you that I like to see my name in the area where you note "members" on line. Sounds stupid but that's how I feel.

I am pretty sure I didn't properly finish my registration. If not, please advise.

Lastly.. I made 4 trips from Harrisburg PA to Pittsburgh PA when my sister was in the hospital. I had to push my truck more that I wanted. As God is my witness, I checked engine oil and clutch oil every trip. AND my truck is serviced a lot. BUT for some reason, in the 1950's on the farm everything was stick and we NEVER checked fluid in tranny. Well I never did. Maybe my uncle or cousins did it when I wasn't looking. The result is that I burned up the tranny, bought a junk yard replacement, and now I'm ready to swap bad for "maybe" good.

Could you direct me to where you have a step by step list of what to do to replace 5 speed tranny in my 1991 Ranger, 3.0, 5 speed, 2 wd baby. Also... I want to replace anything else "in there" rather than drop tranny later because I was lazy or uninformed. I'm 77 years old with bad back and neck surgery scheduled for 12/20/23. My 17 yr old grandson is assisting me. Thanks to my high school sweetheart, I have a lot of tools and a lift. But I want to do it with a maximum of organization and minimum of hassle. Any help will really be appreciated. Thank you in advance. Don

 

[Jazzer]

Welcome back dummies. See if your grandson can point you to some Youtube videos of the process, bound to be some.

Good Luck!

 

[scotts90ranger]

You'll want to change the clutch with just a standard Luk kit or similar, might as well change the slave cylinder while in there, would be a great time to change the shifter bushings (3 screws on the top, pull the shifter out, drive the pins out the sides so you can get to the bottom bushing then reverse).

From what I hear getting the trans around the Y pipe is likely going to be the main issue, it's fairly straight forward. The driveline bolts are 12 point 12mm, heat up a bit with a butane or propane torch to get the loctite looser then closed end of a wrench on the bolt head and tap with a hammer, usually works them loose...

 

[Jazzer]

I meant rummies. No offense meant, I got stiff construction fingers.
Sorry.

 

[rummie46]

Thanks a lot for the humor. We had a concession business to help put our 4 boys through college and we called it Rummies. (an unavoidable acquired nick name) Lightning struck a transformer at High School Football refreshment center. I parked one of our trucks (Rummies sign on the side) there to power the place with our diesel generator for about a week so that the different parent groups could continue to sell refreshments and make money. One of the school board members went ballistic when he saw the word Rummies...besides revealing his stupidity, I guess he revealed his age too. So typing is easily everyone's challenge and absolutely no offense taken. AS FAR AS shifter bearings, I never gave them a thought. Thanks. Any opinion on the pressure plate, throw out bearing, flywheel? No issues just wondering.

 

[Curious Hound]

I’d definitely recommend clutch, master and slave cylinder, throw out bearing and pilot bearing. Procedure is pretty straight-forward. Bleeding the clutch master and space cylinder can be a pain. I recommend buying them together as a complete pre-bled assembly to reduce the hassle. We’ve got bleeding instructions in our tech library. I’ll try to link later. I’m at work right now.

 

[rummie46]

OK.. Tranny from Junk Yard... I have had great luck here for over 60 years but it’s a crap shoot every time. Clutch, throw out bearing, and pilot bearing..agreed. Master cylinder and slave as a pair. I DIDN’T KNOW YOU COULD BUY THEM PRE-BLED. How about rear main and flywheel. Rear main is about $20. Flywheel is about $80. Thank you for your help and understanding. You guys are a godsend. Don

 

[sgtsandman]

OK.. Tranny from Junk Yard... I have had great luck here for over 60 years but it’s a crap shoot every time. Clutch, throw out bearing, and pilot bearing..agreed. Master cylinder and slave as a pair. I DIDN’T KNOW YOU COULD BUY THEM PRE-BLED. How about rear main and flywheel. Rear main is about $20. Flywheel is about $80. Thank you for your help and understanding. You guys are a godsend. Don

It doesn’t hurt to change the flywheel but you don’t have too if it is in good shape. If it looks like it’s been cooked a few times or if it has cracks or scoring, I’d replace it.

Changing the rear main isn’t a horrible idea since you are already there but if it’s dry and looks good, not mandatory.

 

[rummie46]

I don' t need practice. Good info on flywheel and rear main. I would not have known what to look for. Is the Y pipe an issue removing 5 spd tranny in this 3.0 standard cab? Thank You.

 

[Josh B]

Mine is a 4.0 and I always remove the pipes but on mine I think they have to be
If they haven't been off for 23 years it could be tough to do.
Likely best to get some info from a long time 3.0 member

 

[Curious Hound]

Mine is a 93. Can’t remember if I took the y-pipe off or not. There should be pictures in my build thread.

edit; The pictures don’t Show it well. But ai mentioned it in the text. Go ahead and remove it.

1993 Splash in SC

Oh, why didn't anyone tell me there is absolutely no way I could do a clutch job in one day by myself? Other than taking a lot of time, it's going well. Everything is out, the new rear main seal is installed, flywheeel is bolted on waiting for me to find the torque specs, new slave cylinder and...

www.therangerstation.com

 

[SenorNoob]

4.0 can be done with the y-pipe in place, but it's kinda like pushing a tie rod end back together by hand. Super tight and it'll never be right again...

 

[rummie46]

Thanks for your interest in MY problem.. You have problems of your own & your willingness to share is truly appreciated. Here is my problem. 1991, 3.0, 4x2, 5 spd (M50), regular cab. One source says I have to remove exhaust & honestly a different source says no need to do it. Normally I trust both resources so I'm blaming this on age of truck, waning interest in the older Rangers, & simply forgetfulness. I have done a lot of stuff to my vehicles but without photos and a step by step history of my activities, I wouldn't trust anything I said. I'm putting truck on lift in about a week to start so I'll find out, I guess. If anyone has done something like mine, give me a shout, if you have the inclination. Thanks..

 

[Curious Hound]

Thanks for your interest in MY problem.. You have problems of your own & your willingness to share is truly appreciated. Here is my problem. 1991, 3.0, 4x2, 5 spd (M50), regular cab. One source says I have to remove exhaust & honestly a different source says no need to do it. Normally I trust both resources so I'm blaming this on age of truck, waning interest in the older Rangers, & simply forgetfulness. I have done a lot of stuff to my vehicles but without photos and a step by step history of my activities, I wouldn't trust anything I said. I'm putting truck on lift in about a week to start so I'll find out, I guess. If anyone has done something like mine, give me a shout, if you have the inclination. Thanks..

As I mentioned above, I removed the exhaust to do mine. As I recall, I started out trying to do it with the exhaust Y-pipe installed. It is sooooo close that it seems like it should work and I ended up wasting a bunch of time trying before I finally removed the y-pipe. Save yourself the aggravation and just get it out of the way. Start soaking the bolts with your favorite penetrating oil now. squirt them a few times between now and the day you start the job. I like PB Blaster or Kroil if I have them. but WD-40 will work. or make your own - 50% acetone / 50%ATF.

 

[sgtsandman]

Ditto on pulling the exhaust. The amount of labor it saves in the long run it will be worth it. Gravity helps with dropping the transmission. With the exhaust in place, it will be a battle getting the transmission back in.