• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Terrible Engine shudder with error codes...


JoeOh

Member
Joined
Apr 17, 2009
Messages
12
Vehicle Year
1996
Transmission
Automatic
About 2 weeks ago my check engine light came on and I went to autozone to have the codes ran. It came back with "#5 cylinder misfire". So the tech reset the computer and a few days later the check engine light came back on. So now I know it wasn't a fluke issue and it's pretty intermittent.

a few months ago, I had the spark plugs, wires replaced along with the control box that the spark plug wires plug into. Also the IAC valve is new too. So those aren't an issue. Anyhoo just yesterday as I was turning the corner to get onto my street my engine started to sputter something terrible. I immediately shut the engine off, waited a couple of minutes and turned the key again. Still the enigne shuddered like it was going to fall out of the truck. I had to have it towed 1/2 mile to my place.

I read on this forum that it may be a clogged MAF sensor. I just checked it. It looks clean and open and the sensor wires look quite good. All my fluids are at proper levels. My engine runs at proper temperature. What else could this be?

Thanx-

1996 Ford Ranger V6 4.0Liter with 255k miles Automatic Transmission
 
Last edited:
ok, if the #5 fuel injector were to completly fail, what kind of sound would the engine be making??
 
It would just be a constant mis-fire and running really rough and/or shaking. What do you got going on now?
 
Apparently the noise sounds like a loud tick-hiss. The sound is breif and happens several times a second. It coincides with the rpm level. There is a bit of shaking. It doesnt feel like there is anything banging out of place, just a bad ?misfire....

Any ideas?
 
If the injector were to fail, youd have a very rough running motor. The tick/hiss you describe doesnt nessecarily indicate a faulty injector.

Its not entirely uncommon to find noisy injectors on high-mileage OHV 4.0s.... mine sounds a bit like a diesel at idle (just a bit under 214k miles). Nothing to worry about. The injector itself still works fine.

Check your spark plugs, see what they look like. If you've got a bad miss the spark plugs can sometimes give you a pretty good indicator of whats happening. Is the check engine light back on? Any codes?
 
I checked the plugs and wires, they are connected and they are less than 6 months old.
I even replaced the coil pack a while ago too.

What else can make a constant short "tick/hiss" that is timed with the engine's rpms??
 
Nevermind..........It WAS a loose spark plug. I only noticed it when I tugged a little on each wire and then I pulled on #5 and bloop! Apparently the boob who put the new plug in there didn't tighten it properly.....Whew! :)
 
What I meant about checking the spark plugs was removing them and checking the coloration and/or presence of residue on the ends.

Age has no meaning when it comes to checking for signs of problems with a spark plug. It could be brand new but it only takes a matter of seconds of use for it to show signs of other problems. This is why I suggested checking them.

But, its good you found the loose plug. :icon_thumby:

Is it running better now?
 
Oh yea, running much better. The rpm's stay closer to 1k when idling in drive instead of dipping below 700rpms. Can't wait to see what my mpg will be now!!

Now I just need to fix my rear right tail-light. The brake-lights work just fine and both bulbs are new. It's just when my lights are on for the night, the rear-right tail-light is just not coming on. What's the usual suspect??

Thank-
 
Last edited:
The usual suspect of tail light failure even when the bulb has been replaced is the electrical joint thats been grafted on to the wiring harness for trailer tail lights. It rots after a few years and you lose a ground or a power wire.
 
I took a look at the light connector and sure enough the middle plastic tong was bent up blocking the connection. I straightened the plastic tong and the wire. It works now :)

Now lets hope nothing else screws up for a long while.....
 
you talk about the ends of the plugs, what would white residue be considered?
 
White residue/powdery material usually indicates a lean condition OR a decent amount of WOT driving.
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Latest posts

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top