Far and away the easiest (and IMO best) solution is to grab an instrument cluster from a Ranger (some have it) or Explorer (all have it that I've seen) from 89-94. It just swaps clean out with your existing instrument cluster and works instantly, no gauges to find a spot for on the dash, etc.
Theres a tan w/ a yellow striped wire behind your gauge cluster, thats your tach signal wire, you splice into that for the dist/tach wire, and everything else is easy, find a place to hook the ground wire, hook the pos. wire into the fusebox. Make sure the tach your using works with a distributorless system, i found that out after i installed an old tach, and had to take it out since its for an engine with a dist.
Good luck
the most guaranteed to work stock tach is from a '93-94, the dash wiring changed in mid '92, but yes, that's the cheapest and easiest, and not to mention cleanest install...
take the new cluster and your old cluster apart, once you get the faceplate off, the gages just pull out, go from the outside in, swap your whole speedo assembly, they are interchangable... that way your odometer stays the same, no guesswork.
look on the tech library, I believe I did a writeup a long ass time ago...
my speed-o is worn out. it slips and makes all kinds of noise, thats why this new cluster was a plus. i'm gonna try to do what fast said. thanks! but for now i'm in theend stages of swaping the motor. so first things first. haha. i'll let you guys know how the guage goes and how easy/hard it is to change out the blank plastic for the auto one.
The plastic piece comes off very easily. IIRC it has to be taken off to get to the gauges anyway. Are you sure your worn out speedo isn't just a worn out cable?
ya i've replaced the cable and tryed greasing it really good a few times. sounds like all the noise is coming from the guage itself when it starts slipping. regardless though i want a tach. so this should be a win win for me.
changing out the prnod21 for the blank peice in my manual cluster was a peice of cake. two bolts just inside the brass bolts that hold the plastic face on the bottom of the cluster is all it takes to remove and install.
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