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T case chain?


scotts90ranger

Well-Known Member
RBV's on Boost
Joined
Feb 28, 2001
Messages
9,603
City
Dayton
State - Country
OR - USA
Vehicle Year
1990, 1997
Drive
4WD
Engine
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
Total Lift
6
Tire Size
35"
Ok, with everything else I broke doing a tractor pull a few months ago I think the T case chain might be added to the list... A couple weeks ago I went snow wheeling, was aired down to under 10psi, on our way back down the hill just as the snow ended I was still in 4hi on the wet pavement, only drove that way about 100', and at that point there was a ratcheting noise coming from the T case area, earlier in the day I'd gotten a couple clunks but that was the only time I'd heard anything, and 4x4 was working just fine the whole day until then, unlocked the hubs and was good to go.

This is a manual 1354, and if I did stretch the chain (I'll pull the fill plug and see if I can feel the chain tomorrow), would I be able to use the chain from the electric 1354 I have stashed away? Any other thoughts? my muffler broke off, so I gotta weld that back on tomorrow before I go out and find a gravel road or something to test it on...
 
Yup... They use the same chain.
 
if its coming apart or you think it is you better open it up and have a gawk.


i have locked up the rears a few times and about killed myself from the chain coming apart back when i regularly sled pulled and tough trucked.


i always dropped the fluid and looked careful at the magnet when it happened to the fresh chain. one bad thing about decent power and a 208 case, i had to be vigilant. the rbv case is about the same, but dont chuck the links as bad. less whip from smaller size i suspect.
 
I never thought a little 2.3L could do so much damage... fairly fresh siped BFG MT's, 5.13:1 gears in a locked 31 spline 8.8 in low range first, I'm guessing 5000rpm on a turbo 2.3L pushing 12psi... I drove it home in front wheel drive and didn't notice anything weird then...

once the frost goes away here in a while I'll investigate...
 
Ok, it's definitely the T case... I pulled it out and pulled off the rear case half and the snap ring for the rear output bearing no longer has a ring to retain it... a piece of that ring went into the chain and was the noise/binding. When the axle was wraping under load on the pull it pushed the engine forward and into the radiator, that broke that part of the rear case half...

Question is, is that ring necessary? If so, would it be possible to use the rear case half off of a 1354E on a 1354M, if I removed some pieces and plugged the shifter hole?
 
Question is, is that ring necessary? If so, would it be possible to use the rear case half off of a 1354E on a 1354M, if I removed some pieces and plugged the shifter hole?

Iirc, If you cut most of the shifter shaft support off the inside of the case, you can just run a 1/2" pipe tap into the hole from the outside.


Yes... It will work.
 
What about the rear half of a 1350M? I have one of those too... would the chain in a 1350 be the same as a 1354?

That's what I figured on the E case, didn't figure it could be too different in that area...
 
Most of the parts from a 1350 will fit in a 1354.
 
sweet, I'd rather strip parts out of my 1350... it's front output is loose, would be a good chance to strip it to look into a doubler :)
 
Why are you still typing and not ripping apart the 1350 yet?
 
Was busy all day, the 1350 is kinda buried, I'll dig it out after work tomorrow and get some stuff swapped around... While the rear drive shaft is out I'll have it rebuilt...
 
Yep, same rear half, almost back together, just came in to look up the speedo gear... have a 6 and 7 tooth available right now, sounds like a good chance to go from the 7 to 6 so I can get the speedo closer...
 
ok, it's assembled, WAY easier to work on that guy than I was expecting... man it was sparkly in there, I'm just glad I have a solvent tank and air compressor... And from my calculations I think my speedo will actually be accurate now!
 

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